I had planned an epic 40th birthday bash in Southeast Asia (three days in Singapore before heading to a private island in the Philippines) for a friend in March 2020. Since I still had a very flexible schedule I figured I might as well take advantage of the time to see some more of the region. First stop? Malaysia.

In particular I wanted to relax before the nine(!) day birthday spectacular extravaganza began. As much as a private island sounds blissful and luxurious, I knew it was also going to be a lot of drinking, a lot of time in the sun and a lot of coordination to make sure everyone was having a good time… and not a lot of sleep. I needed to start this party bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, not jet-lagged and exhausted.

Before my chilled-out solo time at The Datai Langkawi, I decided to spend a night in Kuala Lumpur. I had never been to Malaysia and figured I should at least see its capital city before retreating to a luscious island off the west coast of the mainland.

Logistics: Getting to KL & Where to Stay

Qatar Airways For the Win

There were no nonstop flights from NYC to KL at the time of my trip; the best options were either to fly through Singapore or Doha. Since my first time flying Qatar Airways had been so incredible, I opted to fly with them again. I planned to fly Singapore Airlines on the nonstop SIN>EWR flight on my return home, and this way I could diversify my flight experiences. Plus, I could break up the trip into two longish flights with a break at the Qatar Airways lounge instead of suffering through one extremely long flight (literally the longest flight offered in the world at the time!) followed by a very short one.

The JFK>DOH seating configuration in Qatar Airways business class had me sitting facing backwards. It was a bit weird during take-off and landing, but otherwise felt no different than a usual flight.
Always go for the mezze plate when flying Qatar Airways. Always.
And the Arabic breakfast in the morning! Qatar Airways offers my favorite food of any airline, hands down.
Enjoying some champagne at the spacious Qatar Airways lounge in Doha
Staying at the Mandarin Oriental

I opted to stay at the Mandarin Oriental, one of KL’s most luxurious hotels, and a complete bargain at $160/night. The location was convenient, adjacent to the Petronas Towers and many other attractions and sites in the center of the city. While service and hospitality were excellent throughout my stay, my room felt a bit dated and not on par with MO’s typical standards. I believe they are going through a remodel, so I am curious to see how that turns out. Otherwise, I would like to check out the Four Seasons on a future stay.

The pool did look quite nice, but jet lag got the best of me and I decided to nap rather than sunbathe. Also, I figured I’d have plenty of pool and beach time over the next couple weeks. Rough life, I know.
View of the iconic Petronas Towers, adjacent to the Mandarin Oriental

Visiting Kampung Baru Market

Rather than plan a high-end dinner out for my only night in KL, I opted for a simpler, more authentic experience with a street food tour. The plan was to visit a handful of street food vendors, farmer’s market stalls and a casual restaurant or two in Kampung Beru. A traditional enclave of Malay culture, Kampung Beru is located in the heart of central KL but has resisted development, despite the obvious financial benefits of doing so.

I walked fifteen minutes to cross the futuristic Saloma Bridge and meet my local guide, Fadly, as well as my fellow tour-mates, Juan and Charmaine. Friendly Filipino-Canadians, Juan and Charmaine had recently started a new life as digital nomad and we quickly bonded over a love of travel and good food. After a quick round of intros, we started our tour in the farmer’s market, sampling all the local fruits and herbs.

Mangosteen – YUM
All the interesting local herbs reminded me of Vietnam, although the vendors looked at me blankly when I asked about fish mint. Not complaining about that.
Yes! Durian!! I had no idea there were different variations of this foul-smelling fruit, but yes there are. Apparently, Musang King is the most popular in Malaysia.
We finished with Nasi Kerabu, a colorful dish of blue rice with fresh herbs that was right up my alley

The food tour was the perfect way to get a slice of authentic Malay culture without a lot of effort on my part. Fadly was an informative guide who helped us access experiences that would have been difficult to find on our own. I enjoyed an easy-going few hours with Fadly, Juan and Charmaine – and the best part? I’d get to see all of them again.

As much as I wanted to check out KL’s cocktail bar culture, I was worn out from travel. And I had the big birthday bash ahead of me. My adult self sent me to bed after the food tour, despite the FOMO voice in my head urging me to stay out and explore more. At least I already have something on the list for my next visit to KL.

Hiking the East Tabur Trail

Another reason I didn’t want to stay out drinking on my first night in Malaysia? I had a hike planned early the next morning. I figured I’d be jet-lagged, and getting out to see nature would be a more rewarding experience than drinking at a bar or just tossing and turning in my bed at the MO. I booked a guided hike on the East Tabur Trail that originated in the lush, affluent neighborhood of Taman Melawati, approximately a 30 minute drive from KL’s city center. My guide? Fadly again! Juan and Charmaine unfortunately had other plans, but I ultimately met up with them again in Singapore.

Fadly picked me up from my hotel early (6am) so we could get started on the trail before it got too hot. Well, it was still extremely hot and humid and I was sweating up a storm once we started climbing uphill. However, I was the only guest on the hike, so we were able to go at my pace and not waste any time.

I was happy to have a guide because the trail looked like this
And this – a bit of scrambling was required
View looking over the city
The view of the Klang Gates Dam became less eerie as the fog receded
Me!
Me again, after the fog receded. It seemed crazy that this trail and these views were just a 30 minute drive outside of KL’s city center.
Post-hike, we finished the morning with a delicious Indian breakfast. I felt energized, well-fed and ready to catch the quick flight to Langkawi.

My time in KL had been way too short, but I was glad I had at least been able to spend a day experiencing some of the city and its outskirts. Next, I was ready for some rest and relaxation at The Datai Langkawi.