By admin New Zealand’s largest lake, Lake Taupo, is located in the center of the North Island. It is a popular travel destination for both Kiwis and international visitors, but only earned a spot on my travel itinerary based on a personal recommendation. At the very beginning of my year of travel in March 2019, I met a well-traveled retired British couple in Patagonia, and built a quick rapport with them as we trekked together on two different hikes. Sue and Graham were happy to give me plenty of travel recommendations, and one that stuck in my mind was Lake Taupo and the nearby Tongariro Alpine Crossing track. A three hour drive from Auckland, and a two hour drive to Hawke’s Bay, Taupo was the perfect mid-way stop on my North Island road trip.
First things first: I had to pick up my rental car in Auckland and master the art of driving on the left side of the road.
While it felt counterintuitive at first, I made sure to stay vigilant every time I made a turn or changed lanes, and I always used my turn signal. If I started to slip into my normal left-hand-drive mindset, the surprise of seeing the windshield wipers instead of the turn signal immediately snapped things back into focus.
Stopping at the Waitomo Glowworm Caves
I decided to maximize the drive from Auckland to Taupo and make a detour to the Waitomo Glowworm Caves en route. New Zealand has so much to offer, and I wanted to see everything I could possibly see. Rotorua was the other option I was considering as a mid-day break, but I had heard from several people that it was underwhelming (one person told me if I had been to Yellowstone – which I had – there was no reason to visit Rotorua). While I can’t give a personal opinion on Rotorua, I can provide my perspective on the Glowworm Caves.
First of all, there are numerous options to decide from if you want to visit the caves, including a walk/boat ride through the most famous caves (simply called the Glowworm Caves), a walk through the largest cave (Ruakuri), a walk through a third cave without glowworms (Aranui), or a combination of these three. For a more adventurous experience, there is even a black water rafting option, where visitors don wetsuits, helmets, and headlamps and float through the caves on inner tubes. I opted for the 90 minute Ruakuri tour that promised up-close-and-personal views of the glowworms, and also allowed photography at certain points (photography is forbidden in the original Glowworm Caves, FYI).
Even though I had pre-booked a ticket for the 3:30pm tour, I arrived early enough to make the 3pm, and they were fortunately able to squeeze me in (one of the benefits of solo travel).
Fun fact #1 about glowworms: They are actually not worms, but the larvae or maggot of a mosquito-like gnat. Personally, I was not charmed by this knowledge. Worms somehow seemed more cute and cuddly than mosquito maggots, which is saying a lot.
Fun fact #2 about glowworms: The light they produce is actually a byproduct of excretion. In layman’s terms, their shit glows! This was getting grosser by the second.
Fun fact #3 about glowworms: The light is used to catch insects in the dark, which the glowworm will then eat and later defecate, thus continuing the cycle. Adult female glowworms will also use the light to attract males for mating. At this point, I was pretty disgusted and didn’t need to learn any details about what actually goes down during the mating process.
Fun fact #4 about glowworms: After 10-11 months, an adult fungus gnat finally emerges. It cannot feed during this time, and its sole purpose is now to mate and propagate the species, before dying a few days later. The end.
Damn. The glowworm life story was no heartwarming fairy tale.
My final thoughts on the Waitomo Caves? They weren’t a bad way to break up the drive between Auckland and Taupo, and I learned some interesting yet unappetizing facts about glowworms. It wasn’t one of the highlights of my time in New Zealand, but I think it would be a fun spot for kids. That being said, after the 90 minute break, I was ready to get to Taupo.
Staying at Lake Taupo Lodge
The drive from Waitomo to Taupo was supposed to take two hours, but I somehow made a wrong turn that sent me down an isolated gravel road and added at least another hour to my trip. However, I didn’t care one bit! I only passed a couple of other cars on the road and found myself awestruck by the rolling farmland hills that surrounded me in all directions. I had no idea where I was, but one thing was for sure: I was falling in love with New Zealand.
Once I finally arrived at Lake Taupo Lodge, my accommodations for the next two nights, I was greeted by the proprietor, Gary, and the chef, Chris. While the lodge has six suites, Gary informed me that there had been a mix-up with the other guests booked for the week, and I was now going to be the only guest. This was actually not the first time this had happened to me; although it may seem luxurious and private to have a property all to yourself, I have found it pretty awkward to be the only guest onsite with a full staff working to serve me.
Fortunately, Gary and Chris were both chatty and welcoming, setting me up with a glass of wine and outlining the menu they had planned for my dinner (while breakfast was included, dinner was offered upon request and at an additional charge). They were very concerned about my pescatarian diet; I assured them that I didn’t need to have seafood with every course and was more than happy to eat a vegetarian meal (in fact, I usually prefer it). Chris didn’t seem to comprehend this statement, and I found myself eating pizza with smoked salmon for my main course. While I love pizza all the time and I like smoked salmon once in a while, I had never thought to try the combination before. It was… interesting.
Gary provided me with a tour of the grand home, informing me that he had upgraded me to the honeymoon suite since I was the only guest. HA. It felt a bit like the world was mocking me, but I’d take it. One other comment – while the property was expansive and offered magical views, the design itself felt outdated. It was time to get out of the ’90s.
After dinner and a lengthy chat with Gary, I retired to my suite for an early bedtime. I was getting picked up at 5:15am the following morning to be taken to the trailhead for the Tongariro Alpine Crossing track.
Hiking Tongariro Alpine Crossing
In addition to being a favorite of my British friends Sue and Graham, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing track is one of the most popular day hikes in New Zealand. The track covers 19.4 kilometers (12.1 miles) in distance, and an elevation gain of approximately 760 meters (2,500 feet), followed by an elevation loss of 1,125 meters (3,700 feet). Because the trail begins at the Mangatepopo Carpark and ends at the Ketetahi Carpark, hikers are required to arrange transportation for their pick-up and drop-off. While some people do book guides, the vast majority do not; everything I read indicated that the hike was perfectly doable as a self-guided experience. I opted to book transportation through Adventure HQ Taupo.
In total, about fifteen people packed into the van. We were all sleepy and silent for most of the drive, until we neared the Mangatepopo Carpark, when our driver started to list off the requisite safety warnings. The conditions for the day were marginal (fog, wind, cold) and she instructed us to pay close attention to our progress and time. If we weren’t making good enough time, we needed to turn around and let her know to pick us back up at Mangatepopo. Otherwise, she’d be at Ketetahi to pick us up at 2pm (for the first round of hikers) or 4pm (for the stragglers). On average, the hike was expected to take approximately seven hours.
The first section of the hike, from Mangatepopo to Soda Springs, was flat, easy, and fairly nondescript. It took about an hour to complete, and I’m sure it would’ve been more interesting if the weather had been clear. I was nervous about the fog, and really hoped that I wasn’t about to hike twelve miles to see a bunch of mist. One of the most famous sights along the Tongariro Alpine Crossing is Mt. Ngauruhoe, aka Mt. Doom in The Lord of the Rings. Sadly, I wasn’t afforded these views on the day I was able to do the hike. I guess it’s an excuse to return?
The next section of the trail, known as the Devil’s Staircase, was from Soda Springs to the South Crater. Next, it was another uphill trek to the Red Crater. This was by far the most challenging part of the hike, especially with the intense wind. I had no choice but to trudge slowly up the steep, exposed hill covered in slippery, loose volcanic stones. As I passed many winded people taking breaks, I tried not to look over the steep edges of the path and did my best to not get blown over by the frequent gusts of wind.
Fortunately, I survived the ascent and passed the summit with relief. From there on out, the hike was pretty easy-going.
It was still slippery heading downhill from the summit, but I channeled the lessons I had learned in Patagonia (on a hike with Sue and Graham, nonetheless!), angling myself downhill at a gradual sideways slant as if I were skiing.
Next up was the walk down from the Red Crater to the Blue Lake (one thing I have to dock the Kiwis on: they were extremely uncreative with these landmark names). While the views were increasingly beautiful, the scent of sulphur motivated me to pass through quickly.
Once I passed the Blue Lake, the trail was an easygoing, ambling descent to the Ketetahi Carpark. With the sky finally clearing and visibility improving, I was able to enjoy the views out to Lake Taupo.
After a quick foray through a lush, forested section of the trail (complete with a waterfall), I made it to the Ketetahi Carpark a little after noon – nearly two hours before the shuttle would arrive to pick up the “early” finishers.
This was probably the most annoying part of the day. I sat on the deck at the carpark, picking at the weird smoked salmon and cheese sandwich that Chris had prepared for me (I told Gary I just wanted cheese and avocado, but these guys really could not get their heads around a vegetarian diet). Then I watched the other hikers finish the trail as they posted for selfies depicting their successful completion.
At one point a little mouse darted out from the woods, and I gasped out loud as a fellow hiker (who was clearly much more experienced with the outdoors) looked at me bemusedly. “What?” he asked me, “It’s just a mouse. It’s not going to hurt you.” I laughed off my reaction and decided to hold back the explanation that I was from New York, where the sight of a rodent near your feet was a reason to panic. Then I entertained myself by watching the (admittedly, cute) creature scrounge for crumbs left by the other hungry hikers. Finally, I spotted our van pulling into the carpark, and I ran out to be the first person in the vehicle. The hike had been a wonderful start to my New Zealand trekking adventures, but I was ready to move on.
A note about the trail and preparation: while it was not exceedingly difficult, it was long and the weather conditions could change quickly. I saw people wearing shorts and casual shoes, which I would not recommend. I wore solid hiking boots, many layers (including a windproof/waterproof shell, which I was very thankful to have), and a baseball cap. One thing I mistakenly forgot to bring: gloves. Fortunately, I had an extra pair of wool hiking socks that I repurposed as mittens.
Looking back, I have no regrets about doing the Tongariro Alpine Crossing track. It was the perfect introduction to hiking in New Zealand and felt very safe and comfortable on my own. I’d love the opportunity to visit again on a clearer day.
Staying at Huka Lodge
While my first choice in accommodations near Taupo was the luxurious Huka Lodge, the resort had limited availability during the popular holiday season, not to mention sky-high prices. I was delighted that I was able to squeeze in a night at the lodge when I could really enjoy the property, while staying at the nearby Lake Taupo Lodge on the days when I had activities planned.
Huka Lodge is consistently rated as one of the top retreats in New Zealand (and the world, for that matter). It has been visited by numerous celebrities and royals; they maintain this list of famous visitors on their website, including such diverse names as Queen Elizabeth II, Bill Gates, Dick Cheney, Miuccia Prada, Naomi Wolf, and The Spice Girls (okay, except for Crazy Spice, everyone on the aforementioned list is white, so it’s not the most racially diverse group, but you have to admit they’re all famous for very different reasons).
While the resort is also acclaimed for its proximity to world-class fly fishing, I had already confirmed back in 2009-2011 that angling wasn’t my jam. Never fear; the lodge had plenty of nearby hiking trails for me to enjoy. Plus, I just wanted to chill on the beautiful property!
First up: Hiking the Redwoods Track to Huka Falls. Before I could check into the Huka Lodge, I decided to do a bit of hiking to see Huka Falls.
Next, it was time to settle into my beautiful suite at the lodge. The staff was beyond welcoming upon arrival, handing me a glass of bubbly and offering a tour of the expansive property. Breakfast and dinner were included for every night of my stay, and because I had booked through my Cartology Travel friends, I was also treated to a complimentary lunch. All I had to pay for was wine (AND the exorbitant room rate, but c’mon! The Spice Girls had stayed there before).
After enjoying my complimentary lunch, I retired to my room to read and relax. Then I headed back to the dining room for cocktail hour and dinner. The lodge prized itself on offering numerous private dining locations, although I clearly wasn’t going to be able to capitalize on this experience being a party of one staying for a single night. However, I could appreciate how the opportunity would help to mix things up for a couple or family staying over a few nights. Regardless, my dinner was lovely, and the staff provided impeccable hospitality throughout my stay. I would have loved to stay for longer if I had the time, or could justify the cost.
The next morning, I started the day with some coffee on my deck, while I watched a friendly duck slowly meander its way toward me.
Four days into New Zealand and I was in love. I couldn’t wait to hop in my rental car, continue practicing my right-hand driving skills, and see what Hawke’s Bay and The Farm at Cape Kidnappers had to offer me.
