Rwanda is a destination on many people’s bucket list for the unique opportunity to see rare mountain gorillas in their natural habitat. In fact, there are only 1,000 mountain gorillas remaining in the world! They live in a small mountainous area (the Virunga Mountains) where Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo converge, and while you can visit the gorillas in any of these three countries, Rwanda provides the most luxurious and straightforward experience–but of course it is also the most expensive.
While the gorillas are Rwanda’s main draw, the country has a lot more to offer travelers: history and culture in Kigali; trekking and more wildlife in Nyungwe Forest National Park; game drives and boat safaris in Akagera National Park; and boating, coffee experiences and relaxing on Lake Kivu. Despite the country’s violent history in the 1990s, it is now one of Africa’s safest (and cleanest imo!) nations, and it has reliable infrastructure for international travelers. The “land of a thousand hills” is also stunningly beautiful, with hilly terrain covered in agricultural crops: tea fields, rice paddies, banana trees, coffee plants and more.
As a travel advisor I had the privilege to visit Rwanda on a “fam” (short for familiarization) trip in April 2022, courtesy of the Rwanda Development Board and a handful of travel suppliers. It was a trip I had dreamed of doing for years, and it did not disappoint. While our itinerary was rushed, I got to see and do a little bit of everything, and I’ve shared some recommended itineraries and tips below to help you start planning your trip. Of course, I would also advise working with a travel advisor (like me!) as we have relationships with local suppliers on the ground and intimate knowledge about the destination to ensure your trip is as seamless as possible.
How long to spend in Rwanda?
If the sole purpose of your visit is to see the mountain gorillas, the least amount of time I’d recommend would be three nights. Anything less and you’re going to feel very rushed, and could risk missing out on your gorilla trek altogether if a travel snafu like a flight cancellation were to upend your schedule. Not worth it.
If you want to see all the main sights in the country at a reasonable pace, fourteen nights would give you the opportunity to soak in each region while also having some time for relaxation and spontaneity. Of course all of the below itineraries are just examples; whenever I plan a trip for clients I always consult with the them on their specific interests, preferences and requirements, and create a bespoke itinerary just for them.
Four Day/Three Night Itinerary
Day One: All international flights to Rwanda fly into Kigali, the capital city. Stay here your first night; depending on what time you arrive, you may be able to plan a sightseeing tour for the afternoon.
Day Two: Spend the morning visiting the Kigali Genocide Memorial. It is intense and disturbing, but important to see, and helpful to provide perspective on Rwanda’s incredible turnaround story. As an example of how things have changed dramatically, the country now has a monthly community service day where all businesses close and everyone collaborates to improve their community. No way could I imagine that happening in the U.S.
After visiting the Memorial, head to your lodge near Volcanoes National Park. The drive from Kigali to the park is just under three hours and is an experience in and of itself. Aside from the green undulating hills, there is a never-ending stream of people going about their day on the side of the road. The men cycle by with heavy piles of wood or other supplies on the back of their bikes, and the women walk in colorful attire, often carrying water or food on their heads and sometimes with a baby swaddled on their back as well.
Check into your lodge and relax for the afternoon and evening. Get a good night’s sleep because the next day you’ll be up early for the big event: gorillas!
Day Three: Gorilla tracking day. I’ve covered the experience in more detail here, as well as my too short but very sweet stay at One&Only Gorilla’s Nest.
After your exhilarating trek, return to your lodge to freshen up and enjoy a delicious lunch. In the afternoon you can relax at your lodge or visit the Ellen Degeneres Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund (yes, that is a mouthful) to learn more about the continued conservation efforts of the gorillas that you just had the privilege to see–and yes, part of the funds from your $1500 tracking permit goes toward conserving these incredible creatures (part of it also goes toward supporting the local communities).
Day Four: Transfer back to Kigali to catch your flight home, or to your next destination.
Eight Day/Seven Night Itinerary
With an additional four nights, you could add a visit to Nyungwe National Forest. I’d suggest ending with the gorillas, as that will likely be the most-highly-anticipated part of your trip, so best to save for last.
Day One: Same as above
Day Two: Morning at the Kigali Genocide Memorial, then transfer to Nyungwe Forest National Park. This is a long yet beautiful drive (5 1/2 hours), but you can break it up with a stop at the King’s Palace Museum for a quick tour to learn more about Rwanda’s history pre-genocide. Alternatively, there is a daily flight from Kigali to Kamembe/Rusizi, which is about an hour’s drive from the park, and the only domestic flight currently operating in the country. Or, you can charter a helicopter for the most efficient/adventurous/pricey option. Relax at your lodge in the afternoon/evening.
Day Three: Get an introductory primate trekking experience with a chimpanzee trek. I’ve explained more about my experience at Nyungwe here, along with my stay at the lovely One&Only Nyungwe House, so I won’t go into too much detail here. The trek may be challenging, so plan to spend the afternoon relaxing or perhaps book a tea plantation tour.
Day Four: See more of the forest with a guided jungle hike; there are a number of trail options depending on how long you want to trek and how difficult you want it to be. The canopy walkway is a particularly unique experience, but I wouldn’t recommend for those with a fear of heights! Enjoy your final evening at your Nyungwe lodge.
Day Five: Transfer to your lodge near Volcanoes National Park; this is another five hour drive (again, stunning) or a much shorter, more expensive helicopter ride. Check in, relax, and get a good night’s sleep.
Day Six: Gorilla trekking day, with option to visit the Ellen campus. You could also start off with a golden monkey trek on this day and save the gorillas for your last day.
Day Seven: Option to do a second gorilla trek (or a first one if you opted for the golden monkeys). You could also do another hike in the area, or simply relax at your lodge.
Day Eight: Transfer to Kigali and return home or to your next destination
Eleven Day/Ten Night Itinerary
With an extra three nights you could also visit Lake Kivu for some time on the water.
Day One: Same as above
Days Two to Four: Nyungwe
Day Five: Transfer from Nyungwe to Lake Kivu. The lake is the sixth largest in Africa, so it’s quite big and it could take anywhere from 2 1/2 to 4 1/2 hours to get to your next lodge, depending on where you choose to stay. Start your visit off right with a sunset boat tour on the lake.
Day Six: Explore the lake in a traditional canoe. Stop by one of the region’s many coffee plantations for a guided tour and a tasting. Relax in the evening.
Day Seven: Do some more trekking on the local trails in the morning, then cool off in the afternoon with a relaxing swim in the lake. Or just relax by the lake all day, take another boat cruise, and enjoy a leisurely lakeside lunch.
Days Eight to Ten: Volcanoes and gorillas!
Fifteen Day/Fourteen Night Itinerary
With a full two weeks, you could also add a visit to Akagera National Park for some game drives, a boat safari, and an opportunity to see the Big 5.
Day One: Same as above
Day Two: Kigali Genocide Memorial, transfer to Akagera. Depending on where you choose to stay, this may take 3-4 hours. Start your wilderness experience with a sunset boat safari.
Day Three: Time for some game drives! Be sure to make a stop at the ranger’s office for a guided tour of the park’s conservation efforts and impressive turnaround story. Well worth it–I had no idea we were going to do this and it turned out to be my favorite part of the day.
Day Four: Morning game drive and head back to Kigali. Overnight here to break up the drives.
Days Five to Seven: Nyungwe
Days Eight to Ten: Lake Kivu
Days Eleven to Thirteen: Volcanoes and gorillas!
Day Fourteen: Transfer to Kigali and fly home or to next destination
Where to stay in Rwanda?
There are a wide range of options to stay all over Rwanda, from budget to mid-range to ultra luxury. I’ve focusing on the mid-range to ultra luxury choices below.
Kigali
Luxury: The top luxury boutique hotel in Kigali is The Retreat with just 20 rooms, some of which have outdoor showers and private plunge pools. It also has an outdoor pool, a small spa and two restaurants onsite if you just want to relax.
Mid-range: We also spent a couple days at the Radisson Blu. It was large and corporate, but also clean, modern and comfortable. Not a bad choice if you just need somewhere to sleep and don’t want to spend much.
Akagera
Luxury: There are only a handful of lodge options in Akagera National Park, the nicest one being Magashi, which is run by Wilderness Safaris. It is on its own concession, which I always prefer for game drives, as it means you won’t see a lot of other vehicles and you can more easily go off-road to track game. This is a tented lodge, with just six rooms.
Mid-range: Ruzizi is another tented lodge, with only nine rooms. Operated by African Parks, it offers beautiful views of Lake Ihema, but is a bit more rustic that Magashi.
Nyungwe
Luxury: As mentioned previously, I stayed at One&Only Nyungwe House, which I highly recommend if you are willing and able to pay for it. The property is stunningly beautiful and so unique as it is located on a working tea plantation. You wake up to the forest and walk through bright green tea plants to get around the property. Read more about my stay here.
Lake Kivu
Luxury: Cleo is the top luxury boutique hotel with gorgeous lake views, excellent food, and a relaxing outdoor swimming pool.
Mid-range: Lake Kivu Serena is also located right on the lake, with a lovely beach. It is larger and more corporate feeling than Cleo, however.
Volcanoes
Ultra Luxury: As the gorillas are Rwanda’s premier attraction, there are a number of lodges in the area, at varying price points. As I mentioned, we stayed at the posh One&Only Gorilla’s Nest, which was a real treat (more on my stay here).
Luxury: Other options include Bisate Lodge, with just six forest villas, and Singita Kwitonda Lodge, with eight rooms (also located the closest to the national park). Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge is slightly larger with nine rooms; it has more of a colonial feel to it and is particularly community-oriented. Virunga Lodge is perched on a hilltop with amazing views of the park and the surrounding volcanoes, but is also the farthest from the park entrance.
Mid-range: Bishop’s House is a colonial-style boutique hotel with just nine rooms. Five Volcanoes is another boutique option that is reasonably-priced.
How to get to Rwanda?
Rwanda is not the easiest country to get to in Africa, but it’s also not the hardest. While there are no nonstop flights to Kigali from the U.S., there are multiple connecting options through Europe or other African countries (Nairobi, Addis Ababa and Johannesburg tend to be the most connected). We flew nonstop on Kenya Airways from JFK to Nairobi, with a very short connecting flight from Nairobi to Kigali. The one challenge we ran into was that the Kenya Airways NBO-JFK flight only operates a few times a week (at least in April 2022) so we had to spend a full day in Nairobi. Not the worst problem in the world, as we were able to plan a really fun itinerary of sightseeing.
When to visit Rwanda?
Rwanda is truly a year-round destination, but the ideal time to visit is June to September. Like many African countries it has wet seasons (October to November and March to May) and dry seasons, but you can still visit during the wet season and have an amazing experience. I visited in April (wet season) and had the time of my life. The conditions weren’t ideal for a game drive as it literally poured all morning when we were in Akagera, but the misty skies in Nyungwe and Volcanoes were exactly how I pictured Rwanda to be, and the gorillas had no problems coming out and showing themselves.