By admin Volcano-studded Lake Atitlan in Guatemala had intrigued me ever since my friends Erica and Johnny visited for New Year’s Eve. Surrounded by villages that are mostly inaccessible by car, the lake is popular with hippie backpacker types, but also offers a number of rustic-luxe eco-lodges for travelers who aren’t looking for a crunchy-granola vibe. Each of the villages has its own character – some are dominated by the bohemian travel crowd, but most are still home to indigenous Mayans who don traditional dress and rely on agriculture (and tourism) to survive. The lake is also home to a number of expats who fell in love with the area’s untouched beauty and local charm and decided to stay permanently.
Lake Atitlan is Central America’s largest lake.
Aldous Huxley called it “the most beautiful lake in the world.”
When looking at a map, I decided that Lake Atitlan was the perfect place to stop in between my visits to San Miguel de Allende, Mexico and Buenos Aires, Argentina. Once I looked at flight schedules, things ended up being a bit more complicated than expected. I ultimately needed to spend a night in Mexico City to get to Guatemala from SMA, and then fly back to the U.S. (through Houston) to get the best flight to BA. All minor details, because Lake Atitlan blew me away and was well worth the extra travel effort.
How To Get to Lake Atitlan
Most international travelers arrive in Guatemala through the capital. From the U.S., one can fly to Guatemala City nonstop from a number of cities, including New York, Washington, D.C., Atlanta, Miami, Houston, Dallas and L.A. As I mentioned, I was flying from Mexico, which was a quick two hour flight on Aeromexico.
Upon arrival in Guatemala, it is approximately a 3.5 hour drive to Panajachel, the largest town on the lake, and the main gateway to access the rest of the lakeside villages. While public buses are available, I opted to pay extra for a private transfer ($100 USD) that I pre-arranged through my lodge. This was obviously less adventurous and interesting, but I welcomed the convenience, privacy and space to spread out.
Unless you are staying in Panajachel (often shortened to just “Pana”), you will need to catch a local water taxi (called a “lancha”) to reach your accommodations. I was initially a bit intimidated by the lancha system, as it was rather informal and I felt like all the locals would stare at me every time I got on or off a boat. However, after a couple rides, I loved the unique experience of waving down a lancha from the dock, feeling the wind on my face and enjoying the breathtaking views as we rode from village to village. It was also a fun challenge to get the attention of the captain to ensure he didn’t miss my lodge’s dock (not a standard stop) and figure out the correct amount to pay for each ride (I tried to remember to ask a trusted source beforehand, as the rate varies for locals and tourists).
Where I Stayed
I was originally eyeing the Relais & Chateax-affiliated Casa Palopó, but then I found the extremely Insta-friendly La Fortuna and decided to go for this slightly more rustic, solar-powered eco-lodge. Perched on a private bay in between Pana and Santa Cruz, La Fortuna features just five bungalows, stunning views of the San Pedro, Atitlán, and Toliman volcanoes, impressive hand-crafted woodwork and a lush garden teeming with bright flowers and fruit trees.
The proprietors (Kat and Steve) communicated directly with me before my arrival and helped to coordinate transportation and activities in advance. Because La Fortuna is located on its own private dock, I opted to enjoy breakfasts and dinners at the lodge (the lanchas stop running in the evening, so you’d have to take a private water taxi if you wanted to go elsewhere at night). All the food was delicious and I loved having the opportunity to chat with Kat, Steve and the other guests at dinner. La Fortuna also offered an extensive wine cellar and liquor selection – not common in such a small and remote lodge, but very much appreciated by wine-and-cocktail-loving yours truly.
The common areas at the lodge were all breathtakingly beautiful. I spent time in the hot tub one afternoon and laid out by one of the two palapas in the sun during another morning. A nice bonus was playing avocado fetch with Sansa, one of several house dogs who delighted in making friends with all the guests.
I’ll admit that a couple things did take some getting used to at La Fortuna. First, because my bathroom was outside in a very lush environment, I dealt with a lot of bugs when brushing my teeth, washing my face, showering, peeing… you get the idea. By the end of my stay, I surprised myself with my tolerance for all the insects – but I probably would not recommend Suite #1 for someone who screams at the sight of a large bug. Second, the lodge is completely solar-powered. Kat asked that I inform them whenever I wanted to blow dry my hair so they could turn on the backup generator (instead I opted for an au naturel hairstyle throughout my stay). Early in the morning I would wake up and find that the power no longer worked in my room, so I would need to navigate by flashlight until the sun rose. I ultimately found these quirks charming and even a bit thrilling, as I’m not exactly used to roughing it. It was just the right amount of adventure for me!
What I Did
While I could’ve happily spent my entire three days blissing out at the magical La Fortuna, I of course wanted to venture out and see some more of what the lake had to offer. I planned two days of activities, but started early both days, so I still had the afternoons and evenings to relax and unwind. It felt like the perfect balance!
- Hiking Indian Nose – There are a number of hiking trails around the lake, but the most popular is probably the trek to the top of Indian Nose Mountain (so named because the shape of the peak supposedly resembles an Indian’s nose – not racist at all). Many people opt to do the hike at sunrise, but I planned to go a bit later in the morning, although still early before it got too hot. Kat connected me with an excellent local guide, Aldo. While I technically could have done the hike on my own, I had read that the trail was “guarded” by a number of “banditos” who demanded payment from tourists and sometimes even robbed hikers that refused to pay. Um, no thanks, I was happy to go with a guide.
- Visiting a Weaving Cooperative – After our awesome hike, Aldo took me to the village of San Juan to visit a local weaving cooperative. The women showed me their entire process and then invited me to shop from their extensive array of colorful woven goods. While I didn’t have much space in my luggage to carry souvenirs home with me, I felt obliged to support their business, so I purchased a small pouch and a scarf. Later on at dinner back at La Fortuna, a gay couple from Houston who frequently visited Lake Atitlan informed me that San Juan had the best woven items, so I’d highly recommend going there if you are looking to shop for some local wares!
- Stand Up Paddling with SUP Atitlan – Kat connected me with SUP Atitlan and Marshall, the expat owner and head guide of this fantastic local tour company. On my second full day I took the lancha over to Santa Cruz early in the morning before the winds picked up and the lake became choppy. Marshall started with a quick yet thorough introduction to SUP technique. While I had paddle boarded before, I realized that I had been doing it all wrong in the past! We spent the next couple hours padding around the lake and jumping off cliffs to cool down with a swim. Marshall was so friendly and easy to chat with, and he took a bunch of incredible pictures that he shared with me later.
- Hiking to Jaibalito and Lounging by the Pool at Club Ven Acá – After the fun morning with Marshall, he recommended a quick 30 minute hike to the next village, Jaibalito, where I could enjoy lunch and chill by the pool at Club Ven Acá. He assured me that there were no banditos on the trail and that it would be impossible to get lost (he was correct, fortunately).
While I felt like I was able to pack in plenty of activities and see a number of the villages along the lake over my three days, I could easily have stayed longer and I’d love to return one day. Everyone that I met at Lake Atitlan was so welcoming and friendly that I was totally comfortable as a solo female traveler. The lake also felt so peaceful and isolated – I left feeling refreshed and recharged, but not at all bored. I could see how so many expats wanted to make Lake Atitlan home. It truly is a special place!
