The Algarve is the southernmost region of Portugal, known for its beaches and dramatic coastlines. There was no way I was going to visit Portugal without hitting the beach. Fortunately, Karen agreed, and we headed to Faro from Porto on an early morning Ryanair flight.

Getting to the Algarve

A popular beach destination for many Europeans (particularly Brits, as we would soon learn), there were a lot of cheap, nonstop flights to Faro from various European cities. Unfortunately, Porto did not offer many options for nonstop flights; we went with the 8:05am Ryanair flight because it was by far the best choice. Yes, you heard that right: the 8:05am Ryanair flight was the best choice.

I had only flown Ryanair once before, and it wasn’t on my list of experiences to repeat. However, coming in with low expectations made the flight much more palatable. It definitely wasn’t the worst few hours of my life.

Navigating the Algarve & Checking in to the Tivoli Carvoeiro

The early morning wake-up call was so worth it when we landed in Faro around 9:30am and had the entire day to hang out at the beach. We had not rented a car since we figured most of our activities would involve drinking, and Ubers were readily available. However, if I had stayed for any longer, I would have wanted my own car.

The Algarve was one place where I struggled to find the right accommodations. I ultimately decided on the recently remodeled Tivoli Carvoeiro, which offered a great location and seaside views. However, upon arrival, I realized it was much too large and family-friendly for my tastes. I would not stay there again.

I probably sound like a whiny brat for complaining about the crowds. The views really were incredible.
View from the cliffs overlooking the property. See? It’s huge!

We ended up hanging out by the pool for most of the late morning/early afternoon. After being on-the-go almost nonstop for the last week, we both welcomed some quiet time (thankfully, Karen found us an area away from all the families that actually did offer some peace and calm). Dinner was at the high-end restaurant onsite, which wasn’t bad. The other option was a massive buffet, with all the families. No thank you!

Seven Hanging Valleys Coastal Walk

One of the benefits of staying at the Tivoli was that an amazing coastal trail runs right through the edge of the property. Both big hiking fans, Karen and I both knew that the trek was a must-do during our stay.

Spoiler: it was breathtaking. Every few minutes, we had to stop to look around in amazement and snap some pictures. I am tempted to compare the trail to the Bondi to Bronte walk in Sydney, Australia, since they are both coastal walks that run through multiple beaches. However, I found the Seven Hanging Valleys trail to be more beautiful, and significantly less crowded.

We started around 8:15 in the morning to beat the heat.

The inlet by the Tivoli. We were able to just walk out of the hotel and on to the trail, which helped with the early AM start
Next, we came to this beautiful beach
Looking back at all the cliffs and inlets along the coast. While the trail was easy to follow and wasn’t technical, I would’ve loved to have a guide with us to explain the geological origins of the region. I know I can always do some internet research, but that’s just not as fun.
The trail also wound around a bunch of sinkholes
Karen, peering out over one of many viewpoints
How cute were these little rest seats?
Requisite selfie
The “X” signs were supposed to signify areas that you weren’t supposed to pass through, but Karen’s curiosity got the better of her here (she didn’t go very far)
The “=” signs were the ones we were supposed to follow
The weathered green flora was a stunning contrast to the golden rocks and clear blue waters
We passed the Alfanzina lighthouse relatively early in the hike, but the views continued on long after we passed it
Praia de Benagil
We decided to walk down to the Praia de Benagil for a quick peek
The perspective from the beach was different, but still amazing
This was a pretty effing cool view. Worth the extra steps.
Back on the trail. Another incredible view around every turn
And another one
A little bit of Mars on Earth
Karen on the Mars section of the trail
The end of the trail at Praia da Marinha. Not bad, right? The entire route surpassed all my expectations.

Drinks & Dinner in Carvoeiro

We ordered an Uber at Praia da Marinha and headed back to the hotel to relax, then freshen up before our big night out on the town. For our last night together, we planned to get drinks at Boneca Bar, a seaside restaurant/bar that the Tivoli concierge had recommended. We then had dinner reservations at Bon Bon, a Michelin-starred restaurant located up the hill from town.

Entrance to Boneca Bar (it was a number of steps down – maybe I shouldn’t have opted to wear heels)
If you were willing to trek over some sand and rocks, Boneca offered incredible cave views. Fortunately, Karen was smart and wore flats, so she was able to take this picture.
And this one
All dressed up for our big night out
One last selfie
Dinner at Bon Bon was excellent, by the way

I’m glad that we had a fancy night out to cap off our trip together; the next day Karen would be flying back to New York. While I had one more day in the Algarve, much of it would be spent reconfiguring my travels, as my 94-year-old Grandma Emily had just passed away. I’d still continue on to Lisbon for one night, but would cut my trip short by five days so I could go to Knoxville, Tennessee and be with my family for the funeral. It was disappointing to have to shorten my Lisbon visit, and especially to cancel the Azores altogether, but it was the right call head home the the U.S. early.

Looking back, I was very happy with the itinerary we had planned together (Karen had already been to Lisbon, hence the reason we configured around that destination). It was great to have all the time that we did in the Douro Valley, and I felt like we maximized our time in Porto. I knew the Algarve had more to offer in terms of beaches and towns, but we got a great taste of the region in our two days there. And, while it was always sad to see a vacation end, at least we had another trip planned together (with our friend Lauren) in a couple months: Peru!