By admin When I began planning my year of travel, a safari was at the top of my list. It quickly became apparent that there was an overwhelming amount of options for safaris. I knew I also wanted to go to Cape Town, and South Africa seemed like a good option for a safari first-timer (Kruger National Park is known as one of the best places to see the animals known as the “Big 5”). As I researched different operators, Singita stood out to me as a highly-rated, long-standing company focused on sustainability, conservation and the empowerment of local communities. They also happen to offer first-class accommodations and hospitality.
Finally, in what I’ve discovered is a very rare occurrence in the world of solo travel: Singita doesn’t charge a single supplement. Since they provide an all-inclusive offering, all of their rates are per person. Many similar companies will charge an additional fee to a solo traveler since that person is taking a room that could be inhabited my two people (bringing in twice the revenue, of course). Not the case with Singita. I’d get my own room and would pay the standard per person rate. It wasn’t exactly a bargain, but helped me to justify the high, high cost of a trip that many people would consider a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Day One
My safari began with an early morning flight from Cape Town to Johannesburg on South African Airways. I’ll admit, I became a bit nervous about flying domestically in South Africa after reading some reviews about the unpredictability of low-cost carriers and the risk of theft with checked luggage. So, I decided to play it safe and fly with South Africa’s flag carrier (which is not saying much as SAA has been struggling financially in recent years). For the first time I used the TSA locks on my checked luggage (I actually had to search Google to figure out how the locks actually worked). Finally, I opted to fly business class. Although the flight was short, the fare wasn’t that much more expensive, and it certainly couldn’t hurt.
The flight ended up going as smoothly as possible. The plane was comfortable and the service was friendly. Even though it was foggy in Cape Town, we landed in Johannesburg early. And no problems once I retrieved my checked luggage. I’d have no reservations flying economy on SAA in the future, but it was nice to have perks like a dedicated line for check-in, priority boarding and of course, a spacious seat in the front of the plane.
Once I landed at JNB, Singita essentially took over. Two different people greeted me at the airport, assisted me with my luggage, and guided me to the private Mercedes that would take me to the lounge from where I’d board the bush plane to Kruger. I wasn’t used to having so much help, but I immediately felt at ease and ready for the adventure that awaited me.
After a few hours’ wait at the Federal Airways lounge (where the workers couldn’t resist pushing food on me at any possible moment), it was finally time for the flight to the park.
The 90 minute flight was on time and went very smoothly. There was even a basket of snacks, waters and soft drinks that we could help ourselves to in flight (yes, more food). I was nervous since I heard that the small planes flying to the bush crash frequently, although there are rarely fatalities. In this case, we experienced few bumps and the landing was perfect.
Upon arrival we were greeted by several members of the Singita staff where they had a small rest station in Kruger National Park. Here we could use the toilets and enjoy more snacks and beverages. Seriously, more food?!
The five of us passengers on the flight boarded a Land Rover Defender (Singita’s vehicle of choice), and we started the 45 minute drive through the park to the lodge.
In addition to all the animals, we also saw a bunch of other people driving on the road since we were still in the public area of the national park (for reference, Kruger is huge – approximately the size of New Jersey). Singita has a concession of land within the park for its own private use, which had a couple of benefits: 1) We’d see very few other people on game drives, 2) The guides had permission to do some things that civilians couldn’t do in the public area of the park; for example, we could go off-road in certain cases when we were tracking animals.
Upon arrival at the lodge, we were greeted with cold towels. I was introduced to Yani, who would be my guide (not private – I was placed in a group with four other people), and Kirin, who I can best describe as a host. Kirin sat me down to get a bite to eat and a glass of wine, then explained what I could expect and finally led me to my room to get settled before my first game drive that evening. He asked me what I wanted to get out of my first safari experience; for example, were there animals that I really wanted to see? Did I want to see a live kill? I looked at him blankly; I had arrived with few expectations and simply wanted an authentic adventure. I wasn’t expecting Singita to magically whip up moments based on my heart’s desires… but I’m sure they had guests who did come with pre-conceived notions.
Kirin was energetic and positive; while born in Zimbabwe, he had lived in five continents, including a stint in the US. We quickly bonded about travel and I was able to tell him about my life plans for the rest of the year. Over the past few months, I had met many different people from all walks of life, and I quickly discovered that I wasn’t always comfortable sharing my current agenda with people who hadn’t had a lot of opportunities to travel. Kirin also had beautiful, long eyelashes and a brilliant smile. He assured me that he would be helping me to many Negronis and glasses of wine during my stay. I could get used to this.
As much as I wanted to luxuriate in my dream treehouse of a room, Kirin advised me that I needed to meet Yani and my new crew at the bar for our first game drive shortly after lunch. So, I quickly changed into my safari clothes and hustled back up to the common area.
One quick tangent on packing for a safari. I had read recommendations to wear natural-colored clothing (I.e. khaki, olive green), and made an effort to pack an appropriate wardrobe. Many guests were sporting similar attire, and some people were clearly trying very hard (too hard, if I’m being honest) with their safari costumes. While it was certainly important to be comfortable (layers were key!), I found that it really didn’t matter what we were wearing in terms of spotting animals. We were sitting in large vehicles and the animals disregarded us as long as we stayed out of their way.
Next, it was time for my first game drive! I learned I’d have the same guide and tracker for my entire stay. Yani was a beautiful, petite blonde from South Africa with a dazzling smile. She would be our driver and guide. Sunday was a calm, yet witty black South African who would be our tracker (basically, he would sit in the lonely seat on the hood of the Defender, scanning the scene for animals, signs of animals, tracks of animals, etc.)
The other guests in my crew? Ina (I may totally be butchering the spelling – aplogies!) and Dana from Dallas, and Kathy and Justin from London (although Kathy was originally from Canada and Justin was originally from South Africa). I guessed that Ina And Dana were in their 50s and Kathy and Justin were in their mid-30s. No retirees or honeymooners in this group.
My first game drive was wonderful. The sky was beautiful, and I kept having to pinch myself. I was actually on a safari! We saw a lot of impalas, as well as an elephant and giraffe. It was my first time sighting all of these animals in the wild.
Back at the lodge, we all decided to continue with cocktails before dinner. Yani informed me that she would be my dinner companion for the evening, which was very sweet of her. Meanwhile, I had struck up a conversation with Justin and Kathy, and they also invited me to have dinner with them. We ended up chatting over cocktails by the fire pit before eventually moving to a table and enjoying a delicious dinner paired with free-flowing wine. Justin and Kathy ran a travel agency, and I delighted at talking with them about their favorite travel destinations and resorts around the world.
After dinner, I wasn’t able to walk back to my room on my own. Because we were surrounded by wild animals, Singita required us to be escorted by an armed porter any time we needed to walk around the resort at dark. I returned to my room to discover that my bed was turned down and surrounded with mosquito netting. I was exhausted and did the bare minimum for my bedtime routine in advance of a 5:20am wake-up call.
Day Two: Morning Game Drive
It was still dark at 5:30am the next morning, so I had asked to have a porter meet me at my room to escort me to the lounge. Unsurprisingly, Singita had a lovely light breakfast spread; I opted for some fruit and a cappuccino before the morning game drive. I quickly realized that while we had discussed a 5:30am meetup, in actuality, it was more like a 5:40, 5:45 or 5:50am meetup, with the goal of departing the lodge by 6am. I had a second cappuccino while I waited for the less eager members of the crew.
Gradually, our group coalesced. Yani hung her rifle over her shoulder as if it was a purse (come to think of it, it likely was her daily accessory). We were off!
Our first major spotting of the morning was a herd of elephants. The situation warranted our first off-road experience as we were pursuing a legitimate animal sighting that could only be experienced when off the official roads. My eyes widened as Yani confidently turned the Defender into the grasses and pursued the elephants as we all bumped along in the back of our real-life amusement park ride. Tip: If you suffer from motion sickness, bring Dramanine on a safari. You’re going to need it.
Next, we heard from another Singita group that they had found a lion pride feasting on their recent kill: a baby zebra. It was fun to watch Yani collaborate with her fellow guides; they all carried hand-held radios and were in constant communication about each group’s plan, their current location, and any notable sightings. If a group did spot something special, the guide would notify the rest of the guides, and each group would take turns viewing the animals in a safe, respectful way.
As the sun continued to rise and the day heated up, we found a comfortable spot to pull over for our coffee break. We only had a couple hours in the early morning to see the animals before they started to go to sleep/rest/hide from the heat. Thus, we would break for 4-5 hours mid-day, and then reconvene in the afternoon when the temperatures started to cool and the animal activity started to heat back up.
While we had the option to eat a full breakfast back at the lodge, I wasn’t particularly hungry after the copious amount of snacks on offer during the game drive coffee break. Other guests retired to their rooms to nap after the early morning wake-up call, but I decided to power through and hit the gym. I knew I’d be spending many hours of the day sitting in a vehicle, and that I’d have nearly nonstop opportunities to eat and drink. Physical activity seemed like a good, balanced option.
Day Two: Afternoon Game Drive
With two game drives under my belt, I was pumped for my second afternoon game drive. Who knew what could happen and what we’d see?
Day Two: Braai
Upon arrival back at the lodge, we were informed that we were all to head directly to the group event scheduled for the evening: a braai, which is most easily described as a South African barbecue. Everyone else in our group seemed to be completely aware of what was going on, while I was totally baffled. Kirin had mentioned that a celebration of sorts would be occurring, and that he would be dancing at some point during said celebration, but I was clueless about the details. Later I learned that Singita regularly does braais and bush dinners, with the intention that every guest would be able to experience one special night event.
Day Three: Morning Game Drive
Once again, I awoke early on my second full day in the park (not by choice). It was a clear morning and the sunrise was beautiful. By this point I knew I didn’t need to rush to the lounge, so I requested an escort slightly later in the morning (5:45 vs. 5:30am) and still had plenty of time for a cappuccino before our departure.
Back at the lodge, I spotted Justin and Kathy working in the lobby, so I went over to say goodbye. They had opted out of the morning game drive to catch up on work; while travel agents get a number of perks like free stays at some of the top properties in the world, the downside is that these are working trips. After two nights at Singita Lebombo in Kruger, Justin and Kathy were heading to Sabi Sand to visit two other Singita properties: Ebony Lodge and Boulders Lodge. I was sad to see Justin and Kathy go; they were close to my age, we had a lot in common and it had been fun to talk with them. We exchanged contact information and agreed to keep in touch.
After a visit to the gym and another delicious yet healthy lunch, it was time for another game drive.
Day Three: Afternoon Game Drive
The highlight of the afternoon came when we found the lion pride again. Apparently the zebra had digested, because they were now ready to hunt. We arrived as the lionesses were craftily stalking a lone impala.
We sat back and watched with anticipation as the lionesses inched closer and closer to the impala (they were intent on their prey and had little interest in us). Yani and Sunday were visibly excited about the opportunity to see a live kill; while I found it fascinating to watch the lionesses hunt right in front of me, I wasn’t sure how I’d feel witnessing a successful kill.
I ultimately wouldn’t get the chance to find out. One of the lionesses was a little too bold and eventually spooked the impala, sending it darting into the bush. “Dumb lioness!” Yani scolded it. “You screwed it up.” She and Sunday seemed just as disappointed as the lions that wouldn’t be getting dinner that night.
Once we returned to the lodge, Yani offered to have dinner with me again. I felt bad taking up her evenings, but she insisted that she enjoyed getting to know me. By now I was beyond impressed with her knowledge, competence and passion, and I told her the feeling was mutual.
Day Four: Morning Game Drive
Sadly, my penultimate morning game drive was fruitless. Because we had already seen all of the Big 5 animals except for a leopard, Yani and Sunday really wanted to find leopards for us. While we weren’t successful, I still found it fascinating to watch how they were able to read the park and look for animal tracks and other signs that we could be near a leopard. I learned that leopards are the most elusive of the Big 5 in Kruger, whereas they are much more prevalent in Sabi Sand. Hmm, was a future safari in order?
Dana and Ina were moving on that afternoon, so we said our goodbyes after the drive. We had developed a friendly rapport over the past few days. Yani later told me that she had been initially nervous about how Dana and Ina were going to feel about our group; Ina told her on the first day that she had been considering paying extra for a private guide and hoped she didn’t regret the decision to go with a group instead. The age difference between them and the rest of the group may also have been a source of concern. Well, it ended up working out just fine. By the end of their trip, Ina was laughing with us and telling us that we were the best group she could have imagined.
Back at the Lodge
I had settled into a wonderful routine of gym, shower and leisurely lunch between game drives. The brooding sense of gloom that precludes the end of an incredible trip was beginning to set in, but I tried to push it away and enjoy my last twenty four hours in safari paradise.
While I was having lunch (a terrific vegetable curry), Kirin came over to chat. He made me a cute little rose out of a paper napkin and made me promise to take it home with me. Aww. I guessed that he probably didn’t get a lot of single female guests to flirt with (I wasn’t complaining).
Final Afternoon Game Drive
Kirin insisted on sending me off on my final afternoon game drive with a gin & tonic. Twist my arm…
Since everybody else in my game drive group was now gone, I’d have the luxury of a private tour for my final afternoon and morning drives. Even though new guests had arrived, Yani told me that they never mixed groups – everyone stuck with the same guide, tracker and fellow guests for the duration of their stay. This ensured that the guides could provide a consistent experience and develop a relationship with their guests.
Private guides can be arranged, but at a steep cost (about an additional $1,000/day). I was getting Yani and Sunday all to myself at no extra charge, so I felt fortunate. Although I had enjoyed getting to know Justin, Kathy, Dana and Ina, and would not have wanted a private guide for the entire visit, it was nice to have more personal time with Yani on my last day. I could also tell that she was being more casual and open with me, which made the experience feel particularly unique and special.
Last Night
I returned to the lodge, changed and headed up to the fire pit for an aperitif. A group of four Americans were sitting next to me, talking loudly. After a few minutes, one of the women asked if I was traveling alone and would like to join them for dinner. As my solo travel experience increases, I am always very touched when strangers invite me to join them, and I hate to decline. However, I had plans for a big night with Yani so I had to offer a big thank you and an apologetic refusal.
While Yani and I had eaten dinner together the last three evenings, she technically was not supposed to drink with guests while wearing her Singita uniform. For my last night, she planned ahead and brought her “civvies” – civilian clothes that helped her to blend in with the guests. Lebombo Lodge had a large wine cellar, and Kirin had arranged for me to join a wine tasting with the Singita sommelier before dinner. Because I invited Yani as my “guest,” she was also able to join.
After the fun and educational wine tasting, we sat down to dinner and bonded over some of the things we had in common. We were both women working in industries dominated by men, and had experienced similar challenges. And while Yani was now dating a fellow Singita guide, she had been single for a long time before they met, and we both had fiercely independent personalities.
The conversation was still flowing once we finished dinner, so we moved to the bar. I told Yani that we could skip the game drive the following morning. I felt satisfied ending with the baby elephants and rhino close-ups from the afternoon, and was really enjoying hanging out with Yani. It felt like being with a good friend, and I thought that experience was just as valuable as one last game drive. There was no need to cut our night short so we could get to bed for an early morning wake-up call.
“Are you sure?” Yani asked me. “Absolutely,” I said. “Okay,” she said, turning to the bartender. “Let’s do one more round, please!”
Final Morning
I had an early afternoon flight in another bush plane on my final day at Kruger. I slept in, packed and settled my bill. I had already paid my balance and all food/drinks/experiences were included, but I still needed to leave gratuities for Yani, Sunday, Kirin and the rest of the wonderful staff.
Then I enjoyed a complete breakfast (Eggs Florentine) for the first and only time of my stay. The loud Americans from the previous night were sitting next to me at breakfast (they were also on my flight), so I eavesdropped on their conversation while I ate. They were from Laguna Beach and talked a lot about travel, so they probably would have made interesting (albeit vociferous) dinner companions. I did get to make some small talk with them as we made the transfer back to JNB. They had visited Sabi Sand before Kruger, and gave it high remarks.
Finally, it was time to say goodbye to my new friends from Singita. I felt a lump in my throat as I hugged Kirin and Yani. The last time I felt so morose leaving a place had been when I left Patagonia.
“Do you still have my rose?” Kirin asked me. “Of course!” I told him. He gave me a huge smile and one last big hug.
Yani and I exchanged contact information. She told me she’d reach out if she came to New York, and let me know that if I did want to go to Sabi Sand in the future, I could request her as my guide. We hugged for a second time and gave each other glum smiles.
I climbed into a Defender for one final ride to the airstrip and waved goodbye to everyone. In my heart and in my head, I knew that I had just experienced one of the travel highlights of my year (and my life, for that matter). I had gained a huge appreciation for the African bush, and was proud I had been able to support an organization with conservation of that magical ecosystem at its core. My newfound respect was in no small part due to the passion and expertise of everyone at Singita – their enthusiasm was infectious.
I felt an urgent desire to start planning my next safari, but forced myself to set that aside and focus on my more immediate travel horizons: a night in Johannesburg and a visit to Bazaruto Island in Mozambique.
