Amsterdam is one of my favorite cities in Europe, if not the world. I’ve only been once, but I immediately fell in love with the charming canals, the quaint architecture, the friendly people, and the quirky character that makes the city a one-of-a-kind travel destination. Bicycles! Windmills! Stroopwafels! Coffee shops! (Or maybe I should say coffee shops, then stroopwafels…)
My first trip to Amsterdam originated when I realized that my brother had a visit planned during Memorial Day weekend in 2018. With many nonstop flights from JFK, it would be an easy long weekend trip for me and I’d get to see the city with the help of one of my favorite tour guides: my younger brother, Jonathan. Well, he ended up falling in love and chose to cancel his flight to stay in Asia with his new girlfriend, Ana. I was almost looking at a solo trip until three of my best friends from New York decided that a holiday weekend in Amsterdam sounded excellent to them as well.
And it worked out terrifically. It turns out that Amsterdam is the perfect destination for four thirty-something girls looking for a blend of culture, delicious food, great cocktails and fun people. And the trip got even better when I learned that Julie, one of my best friends from Seattle, was also going to be in town with her friend Jen. What were the chances?! I ultimately booking a four night stay, but a couple of my friends were only able to join for three nights. We were still able to fit in plenty of eating, drinking, shopping and sightseeing.
Where To Stay
I thought long and hard about this one. We didn’t want to break the bank on this trip, but we wanted to stay somewhere nice and stylish. We ultimately landed on the Hoxton. Centrally located on a “good” canal (according to one of the locals we met), the Hoxton showcased clean yet cozy mid-century design, a hip bar and welcoming service. If you’ve ever visited or stayed in a Soho House (I’d recommend), you know the vibe.
My friend Vicki and I arrived early on Friday morning after separate red eye flights and were delighted to learn that our Cosy Room was ready for us. It wasn’t large, but we were placed on the top floor, so it was nice and bright. The hotel also organized regular social events and activities, which we took advantage of during our stay. As group fitness enthusiasts, we were thrilled when we realized that our visit coincided with a “Run, HIIT, Run, Brunch, Repeat” event co-hosted by ASICS (for only €10, a steal compared to the cost of NYC fitness classes, let alone brunch).
While researching accommodations I was also considering the aforementioned Soho House and the Andaz, but was very pleased with the Hoxton. In fact, I liked it so much that I decided to stay at the new Hoxton property later in the year on a Thanksgiving trip to see family in Portland, Oregon. While each property does take on some of the character of its location, the aesthetic is very similar and prices are reasonable. Hoxton for the win.
Where To Eat
I didn’t arrive in Amsterdam with very high expectations for its food, but was impressed with the international dining scene and the regional specialties. They also know how to do brunch, which is saying a lot from someone who lives in New York! Here’s what we did and where we went:
Hungry Birds Food Tour – Vicki and I arrived a day earlier than everyone else and she had the ingenious idea of booking a food tour to keep us awake and entertained while trying to fight jet lag and sleep deprivation on our first day. The five hour tour started at 10:30am and included numerous stops (I forget exactly how many, but want to say seven or eight) and SO. MUCH. FOOD. Plus a few drinks. We got to try local favorites like cured herring, stroopwafels, Indonesian appetizers, cheeses and more. Fortunately, we also walked a lot, so we didn’t feel like complete fatties by the end of the tour. It was the perfect introduction to Amsterdam and its diverse food culture.
The Seafood Bar – After walking around and exploring the city on our first day, we managed to work up an appetite in the evening after our multi-course food tour. The Seafood Bar had several locations in Amsterdam, and we stumbled upon one after spending several hours at the Van Gogh Museum on Friday night. It was on the casual side, but still classy, and an excellent choice for a light and healthy meal.
Gs – This brunch spot had a few locations, one of which was even on a boat! We went to the one in Jordaan and it was a lot of fun. The Bloody Mary menu was impressive, the Eggs Benedict was delicious and the ambiance was irreverent.
Indonesian Kitchen – Indonesia was formerly a Dutch colony, so Amsterdam has a number of excellent Indonesian restaurants. We went to Indonesian Kitchen based on a recommendation from a local and got to try the rijsttafel, or rice table, which is essentially a bunch of small, shareable dishes served with rice.
The Duchess – I hesitated to include this restaurant (located in the W Hotel) on this list because we experienced pretty terrible service. The wait for our table was significantly longer than quoted, we experienced awkward delays between courses and received no communication about the poor execution until we complained. However, the food was all very good and the setting in a former bank is truly beautiful. It’s worth seeing, but perhaps just go for a drink and apps at the bar.
Bakers & Roasters – We had another excellent brunch at this restaurant that describes itself as a “New Zealand style café with a heavy dose of Brazil.” Light and airy with street-side dining available, this spot and Gs convinced me that Amsterdam’s brunch scene is on point. I opted for the Huevos Rancheros and a mimosa.
De Kas – I made a reservation here weeks in advance for our last night and was so glad that I did. A bit of a drive from Central Amsterdam, De Kas offers the experience of dining in a greenhouse surrounded by lush gardens. We started the meal with an aperitif in the gardens, then toured the greenhouse and settled into the leisurely event, enjoying fresh ingredients grown on-site paired with excellent wines.
Where To Drink
Amsterdam isn’t necessarily known for its cocktail scene like London, New York and Paris are, but it does have some solid options. With four nights, we were able to get a taste, but there are even more places I’d like to check out on my next trip. What we did see:
Door 74 – This speakeasy featured a New Orleans-themed menu during our visit, which immediately won me over. Drinking cocktails inspired by one of my favorite cities in the world while visiting another one of my favorite cities in the world? Yes, please.
Pulitzer’s Bar – Located in the classy and refined Pulitzer Hotel, this art deco bar offered a menu of cocktails inspired by the life of Ernest Hemingway. Classic literature combined with well-made drinks? I was in my own version of cocktail heaven.
Brouwerij ‘t IJ – This brewery was a bit of a hike (we took an Uber), but totally worth it. We were able to enjoy our beers outside at picnic tables with a view of a large windmill.
Tales and Spirits – The only bar in Amsterdam on the World’s 50 Best list (currently #31), Tales and Spirits was must-see for me. Unfortunately, when we arrived on Saturday night, they were closed for an industry event and would not let us in. I tried to drop Jonathan’s name and ended up speaking with the owner, but still no luck (ironically, my brother had planned his trip to Amsterdam around that event). We ended up meeting the brand ambassador for Angostura later in the night and he assured us we were better off not experiencing the hot, sweaty, drunken, bro mess that was not reflective of a typical night at T&S.
Well, all’s well that ends well. We ultimately stopped by on Sunday night after dinner at De Kas and had a blast at the lively (but not hot or sweaty) bar. We did not get to experience their regular menu, but the guys from St. Petersburg bar El Copitas (#39 in the world) were doing a takeover, so we instead got to enjoy Mexican-inspired cocktails made by Russian men while in Amsterdam!
What Else To Do
I really loved the variety of activities in Amsterdam: museums, history, the outdoors, shopping, food and drink… by the end, I felt like we had a very well-rounded trip. The highlights included:
Van Gogh Museum – I am a huge fan of smaller museums/exhibits that focus on one artist or era. They are much less overwhelming and allow you to go deep on a topic. We also lucked out and happened to be in Amsterdam on the last Friday of the month, when the Van Gogh museum featured a lively evening event complete with a DJ and drinks.
Private Canal Tour on a Boat – Touring the canals by boat with a small group was one of the highlights of our trip. We found a local guide through AirBnB Experiences and were able to chat with him and get recommendations for the rest of our trip while sipping wine and sampling Dutch cheeses. I’d highly recommend splurging on a more personal tour rather than booking one of the larger, more crowded options.
Coffee Shops – The “coffee shops” in Amsterdam don’t actually sell coffee, but are code for weed dispensaries. When in Amsterdam, right? I do not purport to be an expert on this subject, so I’m not going to make a specific recommendation, but I will say it was not difficult to make friends with locals and get advice on where to go.
Anne Frank House – You must book this in advance as it sells out very quickly! The ticket included an audio guide and it did not take long to tour the entire secret annex where Anne, her family and their friends hid during WWII. The subject matter was obviously very intense and sad, but so important to see.
A’dam Lookout – A newer building that required a short ferry ride to reach, this rooftop was undeniably built for Instagram-posting tourists, but still featured a great view. We got a bit of a thrill swinging high above the city and the pictures turned out pretty cute, too.
Shop at Love Stories – We walked by this lingerie boutique numerous times over the weekend and I kept drooling over the window displays, so I had to stop here on our last full day. I am still obsessed with the black and white star-print robe I found. They also had well-made camisoles and lacy items in a variety of colors.
Picnic at Vondelpark – I love having picnics with wine and local snacks, and this park was a perfect location to enjoy nature and people-watch.
Other Things to Note
Getting Around – Ubers are available, and a great option if you’re looking to get out of Central Amsterdam. However, with all the narrow, winding streets, you’re better off not driving if you are exploring the central area, where many of the tourist destinations are located. You’ll see a lot of locals zipping around on bicycles, but beware if you decide to use this mode of transportation! We saw numerous tourists almost getting in accidents because they didn’t know where they were going and struggled to follow the fast-paced flow of traffic. We opted to walk most of the time and still needed to be very careful to not get in the way of any bikes.
Communicating – Most of the Dutch people in Amsterdam speak English, so it’s a very easy place to visit for American tourists.
Currency – Netherlands uses the Euro, but we were able to use credit cards for almost everything. I used a little cash for tips.
Tipping – On that note, tipping is not really expected in most situations, as in most of Europe. We would generally round the bill up to the nearest five or ten at restaurants (except at a fine dining restaurant like De Kas, where we left 10%). I also liked to tip tour guides, especially if I feel they had gone above and beyond.