By admin The bad news: my 2019-2020 visit to Australia with Lindsay and Katz coincided with some of the worst wildfires that the country had experienced in recent history. The good news: we were still able to do everything that we had planned on the trip, but the weather conditions were hit or miss (and more frequently, a miss).
Smoky skies and poor air quality prevailed on most days, although we did get a few days of sun. Throughout the trip, friends and family back at home were reaching out, asking if we were safe in Australia. We were never close enough to the fires to be in danger (the closest we got was during our day trip to the Blue Mountains), but it was an odd time to be visiting a place that was suffering from unprecedented losses to its local communities, nature, and wildlife.
That distressing detail aside, we were determined to carry on and do our best to enjoy the city. Here’s how we spent our time:
Day at Bondi Beach and Bondi to Coogee Coastal Walk
Sydney is famous for its beaches, and we New Yorkers of course wanted to enjoy the southern hemisphere summer in December. Bondi is Sydney’s most iconic beach, offering white sands for sunbathers, huge waves for surfers, an array of cafes, the well-known Icebergs Club, and a scenic coastal walk that winds six kilometers through numerous other beaches.
We started our day with lunch at Icebergs, overlooking the ocean. Although it calls itself a club, the establishment is open to visitors that don’t live in the area, with proof of residence.
After lunch, we embarked on a leisurely stroll along the coastal walk. Since the weather conditions were less than ideal, we didn’t feel inclined to spend much time at Bondi (although the smoke didn’t seem to dissuade many other beachgoers).
We turned our walk into a bit of a cafe crawl, stopping for a glass of wine along the way, and finally lying out for a bit once we reached Coogee Beach.
Ferry to Manly Beach
Another well-known Australian beach, Manly is a famous spot for surfers, but is also an excellent option for sunbathers, with a wide expanse of white sand and numerous beachside cafes. Plus, the ferry ride from Circular Quay (twenty minutes on the Manly Fast Ferry) offers stunning views of Sydney, the Harbour Bridge, and the Opera House.
We visited Manly Beach on New Year’s Eve, when we were finally graced with a clear day!
Walk/Run Along Sydney Harbour & Royal Botanic Gardens
One of my favorite places to run in the world is along the Sydney Harbour and through the Royal Botanic Gardens. The iconic views are hard to beat, and the varying scenery is a helpful distraction from some of the hills. Of course, it’s also a lovely walk if you’re not interested in running. Unfortunately, the poor air quality during much of our 2019 trip made exercising outdoors inadvisable, but I ran nearly every day of my 2017 visit and lucked out with a clear day when I returned to Sydney on my own at the end of my Australia trip in January 2020.
Day Trip to the Blue Mountains
While many people opt to visit Blue Mountains National Park over several days, given our time constraints, we chose to just do a day trip, which was totally doable from Sydney. Despite the ceaseless smoky conditions, it was still refreshing to get out of the city and do some (rather adventurous) hiking in nature. I’ve covered the entire day in more detail here.
Sydney Food & Beverage Scene
Like most major cities, Sydney has an excellent F&B scene, offering a wide variety of options whether you’re looking for a casual beachside cafe, sophisticated fine dining, vibrant bar scene, or swanky speakeasy. Some of the places I’ve visited during my trips to Sydney:
- The Apollo – Upscale Greek food with an Australian twist
- Automata – Well-regarded tasting menu spot; however, my brother and I were both a bit underwhelmed
- Big Poppa’s – Most Sydney bars shut down early due to strict lockout laws (although I understand that may have changed in January 2020). Locals told my brother and me to hit Big Poppa’s if we wanted a late night scene, and the bar delivered
- Baxter Inn – I’ve never been to this popular speakeasy when it hasn’t been jam-packed
- Bulletin Place – Cozy upstairs bar that only serves a rotating menu of five cocktails, all based on fresh, seasonal ingredients
- Chin Chin – Asian fusion with a fun vibe. I went here with my friend Irina (Aussie that I met in Barcelona)
- Hubert – I only went to this French restaurant for happy hour drinks, but found the old-school underground space to be beautiful. The scene was bustling– and had live jazz
- Maybe Frank – Delicious pizzeria and cocktail bar run by Italians (one of the owners is named – what else – Andrea). The same team also owns the next bar on this list (note the Rat Pack references)
- Maybe Sammy – My favorite bar in Sydney! Sadly, they were closed for their holiday shutdown when Lindsay and Katz were in Sydney with me, but I went multiple times on my own in January and always had a great time sitting at the bar and chatting with the bartenders. Say hi to Martin (my brother’s friend) and Manuel (charming and cute Italian)
- PS40 – Innovative cocktail bar that also makes its own sodas
- Quay – Lindsay, Katz and I splurged on a fine dining dinner here after our day at Bondi Beach. Tasting menu only, with stunning views of the Harbour Bridge
- Shady Pines Saloon – As the name suggests, this dive bar has a saloon theme, complete with taxidermy. It felt a little hokey to me, but people love this place
- Saint Peter – Charming seafood restaurant
- Sokyo – Reportedly Sydney’s best sushi (at least someone told us that), but I was somewhat disappointed. Swanky spot with entertaining people-watching
Accommodations in Sydney
Lindsay, Katz, and I opted to stay in an Airbnb in Sydney’s CBD for our New Year’s Eve visit. While our 2BR/2BA condo lacked character and was over-priced due to the holiday season, we enjoyed the convenient location and amenities (laundry and gym in particular). It’s also always nice to have a kitchen and common areas to hang out in when traveling with friends.
The other times that I’ve visited Sydney I’ve stayed at the Park Hyatt. Arguably the nicest hotel in town, the hotel is a splurge (typically $1k+/night) but I refuse to pay cash since one can get great value by redeeming Hyatt points. Best hotel in Sydney for free? Yes, please!
Sydney is also a popular destination for New Year’s Eve! I had always wanted to make the trip and was thrilled when Lindsay and Katz agreed to do so with me. Read about our experience here.
