By admin I’ve visited Buenos Aires twice: initially with my brother Jonathan for my first trip to South America, and second with my friends Lindsay and Karen as part of a larger Latin America trip. It’s somewhat embarrassing to admit, but both times I didn’t really do much other than eat, drink and sleep. I know the city has a lot more to offer, and hopefully one day soon I will return to experience more culture, but for now I can at least provide some tips on all the excellent food, cocktails and wine that can be enjoyed in BA.
While the city’s famous food and beverage scene has been its biggest draw for me, I’ve found Buenos Aires to be a convenient destination for a couple other reasons:
- While it’s a long flight from NYC, BA is only an hour or two ahead of Eastern Time (depending on the time of year, as Argentina does not observe daylight saving time). This makes it a much easier adjustment than traveling to Europe or Asia. The flights are also red eyes each way, which means you don’t lose a day traveling. If you’re an overly ambitious traveler who lives in New York like I do, you can easily experience Buenos Aires over a long weekend.
- The city is very affordable for visitors from the U.S. Unfortunately, this is due to Argentina’s ongoing recession and currency devaluations, which I don’t at all mean to celebrate, but I am happy to try to help the economy in any small way I can by spending money there.
Now that I’ve properly framed my affinity for Buenos Aires, on to the recommendations!
Where to Stay
For my first visit, I stayed at the luxurious Park Hyatt Palacio Duhau in Recoleta, one of Buenos Aires’ most upscale and historic neighborhoods. The main building (where I stayed) is literally a palace, and the hotel is home to an impressive art collection. While I did not eat at any of the restaurants, I loved having a glass of wine on the terrace overlooking the gardens and highly recommend the spa!
While I was tempted to revisit the Park Hyatt for BA trip #2, I decided to mix it up and check out the Four Seasons, also in Recoleta. While the hotel does not have a palace, it does boast a stunning mansion that is an iconic example of the European-style architecture that Buenos Aires is famous for. Like many other Four Seasons properties around the world, its polo-themed bar, Pony Line, features an excellent cocktail program. What’s more, its restaurant, Elena, has made an appearance on Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Finally, the amenity that really caught our attention during our peak summer visit in steamy Argentine January was the outdoor pool.
Both properties offer excellent hospitality and unique character despite the fact that they’re large hotels. That being said, I’d love to explore some of BA’s boutique offerings on a future visit.
Where to Eat
First, a disclaimer: I do not eat meat, so if you’re looking for recommendations on where to get the best steak in meat-obsessed Argentina, I’m not your girl.
In alphabetical order:
Casa Cavia – Lindsay, Karen and I had brunch at this photogenic mansion and we couldn’t stop taking pictures of the beautiful space. While I can’t speak for the quality of the bar, the food was quite good – and the pretty ambiance made it even better. I could see myself hanging out here for hours, and I probably would have, if we hadn’t needed to rush to the airport to catch our flight to Punta del Este.
Chila – A regular on Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list, I really wanted to like Chila. And maybe I would have if I remembered it better? Jonathan and I opted for the tasting menu at this fine dining restaurant, along with wine pairings. And they were stiff pours. Suffice it to say, I did not make it to any bars with my brother after this meal.
El Cuartito – The ambiance at this classic pizza establishment (it opened in 1934) is a bit hectic, but it’s so worth a stop. I had my first experience eating fugazzeta here with my brother. Fugazzeta is essentially thick Argentinian-style pizza stuffed with cheese. What’s not to like about that?!
Elena – The restaurant at the Four Seasons is best known for its steak, so it may seem like a weird choice for me, but we had a $100 F&B credit to spend at our hotel, so Lindsay and I decided to try this place out. I’m glad we did, because the grilled octopus was particularly good.
Mishiguene – This is my kind of place. Described as a modern take on traditional Jewish food (“mishiguene” means crazy in Yiddish), this restaurant offered well-spiced vegetables and dips in a swanky setting. There was also the typical fish and meat that you’d expect of Jewish culture, but there was plenty to satisfy me. And it cost us less than $100 for three people, including drinks. Did I mention it was ranked #8 on Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list?
Tegui – Another fine dining restaurant that is a mainstay on Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants List, Tegui helped me to recover after striking out at Chila. Again, we had the tasting menu with pairings, and I remembered it all. I even trying frog legs (they were surprisingly good!) Can wholeheartedly recommend Tegui.
Where to Drink
Floreria Atlántico – Hidden downstairs from an amazingly fragrant flower shop, this lively bar is possibly one of BA’s best known bars internationally. This is not a chill, lounge-y type of cocktail bar; both times I’ve been here it was a party scene. Located in Recoleta and is walking distance to both the Park Hyatt and the Four Seasons, as well as many other excellent bars.
The Harrison Speakeasy – A couple things I quickly learned on my first trip to BA: the city loves speakeasies, and it loves New York. This particular bar is an ode to an actual Prohibition-era speakeasy in NYC, hidden behind the Nicky NY Sushi restaurant. The attention to detail in its rendering of the original is quite impressive.
Pony Line – The bar at the Four Seasons celebrates Argentina’s obsession with horses and polo. Even though it’s a hotel bar, Pony Line has an excellent cocktail program.
Presidente Bar – Also in Recoleta, Presidente Bar is a classy, sophisticated cocktail bar, but still features a lively scene (it is in BA, after all).
Uptown – This loud and crowded speakeasy blew me away with its take on the NYC subway system, albeit a much cleaner version.
As you can tell, there is lots to eat and drink in Argentina’s capital city! Next time I’ll do my best to round out my visit with some culture and sightseeing… but I can’t make any promises.
