By admin I spent five nights in Santiago as part of my larger Chile and Argentina trip in March, at the very beginning of my break from work in 2019. Note that these weren’t continuous nights; instead, I used Santiago as a hub for my trips to Patagonia, Mendoza and Easter Island. I know that a lot of people treat Santiago as a stopover en route to their actual destination(s) in Chile, but I found that the city has a lot to offer and I would recommend staying for a while to explore. Santiago was my first stop on my “next venture,” so it may have special status in my book, but I found myself wishing I had planned additional time to see even more.
Surprise, surprise. I ended up returning to Santiago with my friend Karen in late January 2020 for the second half of our birthday trip to South America (we share the same birthday). It was another quick visit, but I got to explore a bit more and expand on my recommendations.
I didn’t know exactly what to expect on my first visit, but was impressed with the clean, modern city and the lush green spaces throughout. The Andes Mountains tower over the skyscrapers, the sunshine is abundant and the dry desert air prevents the high summer temperatures from feeling too uncomfortable. It is an active community, with people riding bikes and zipping around on scooters. Finally, the city provides a variety of activities, and there are numerous day trips as well.
My Favorite Things to Do
Tour La Chascona – This is one of three of Pablo Neruda’s homes that are now operated as museums open to the public (the other two are located in Isla Negra and Valparaíso). The history of this house is quite interesting; Neruda originally built it to hide his mistress, Matilde Urrutia (she eventually became his third wife). I started to read the biography Neruda: The Poet’s Calling by Mark Eisner shortly before my first trip to Chile and was only at the stage in Neruda’s life when he was marrying his second wife, but it was incredible to see how he lived and made me even more excited to finish the book. Neruda certainly wasn’t without his faults, and I have a hard time getting over the way he treated women, but I can respect his important place in Chile’s history and there is no doubt that he was a fascinating personality.
The house itself is very unique, from the way it was designed to the way it was decorated. It actually consists of multiple structures and was built into a hill, so there are a lot of stairs and outdoor spaces, but it all somehow works together. I especially appreciated the attention to detail that the couple put into decorating the spaces, including a lot of items they collected from around the world and plenty of color and character.
The price of admission includes an audio guide and it’s a quick tour (less than an hour). They also show a ten minute introductory video that summarizes Neruda’s life, so you can still get a lot out of a visit even if you aren’t that familiar with his history going in to the experience.
This was my first stop upon arriving in Santiago and it was one of the highlights for me, despite the fact that I was exhausted and jet-lagged.
Explore Bellavista – This is a perfect activity to do before or after visiting La Chascona, as the house is located in the Bellavista neighborhood (I went afterwards). It is fun to just wander the streets, admiring the street art and all the colorful open air restaurants and bars. I can only imagine that the nightlife scene gets pretty rambunctious, although I didn’t have the chance to experience much of it firsthand. On my second visit to Santiago, Karen and I did stop in Siete Negronis for a couple pre-dinner drinks. We got there way too early to enjoy the scene (like much of South America, things don’t get hopping in Santiago until late), but I can attest that the cocktails were world class.
Take a Wine Tour – I visited the Casablanca Valley on my second day in Santiago and it was one of my favorite things that I did (read more about my visit here). The Casablanca Valley is one of Chile’s newer wine regions, but also the fastest growing. Located between the water and the coastal mountain range, it gets morning fogs and cooler weather than other regions, and is known for its white wines (Sauvignon Blancs and Chardonnays), as well as its Pinot Noirs. It is just an hour-long drive from Santiago to the Casablanca Valley, and there are several companies that operate small group tours. Maipo Valley and Colchagua Valley are both accessible day trips if you want to see other wine regions in the area (Karen and I went to the Maipo Valley during our visit and had a blast).
Where to Eat and Drink
Ambrosía – This farm-to-table restaurant is a bit of a hike from central Santiago, located in the residential area of the Vitacura neighborhood, but it is well worth the trip! The restaurant is set inside a repurposed house and built round a beautiful garden courtyard. Because the tables are spread across several rooms, the ambiance is intimate and romantic. So, it was the perfect place for a solo dinner to go (I kid, but I didn’t feel weird being there alone). I brought Karen on my second visit and it was just as good as I remembered.
Restaurant 040 – This fine dining restaurant in Bellavista is a regular on Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list. It only offers a tasting menu but was able to accommodate my pescatarian dining special needs. Definitely save time for after dinner drinks at Room Number 9, a speakeasy style bar that is only accessible to members and restaurant guests.
Where to Stay
Hotel Le Reve – Karen and I stayed at this charming boutique hotel. It features a beautiful courtyard, where breakfast is served every morning. Rates are reasonable and the location in Providencia is very convenient, with lots of bars and restaurants within walking distance.
Ritz-Carlton Santiago – I stayed here on my own; it’s a large hotel in a commercial district, so not as quaint as Le Reve. However, it has all the full-service amenities you’d expect from a luxury hotel, and is also within walking distance to a number of bars and restaurants.
