The Alentejo region of southeast Portugal may not be as well-known as the Douro Valley in the north of the country, but this underrated destination has plenty to offer: excellent wineries, spectacular star-gazing, charming medieval villages and of course some incredible boutique hotels. My choice when I was visiting the region in April 2022? São Lourenço do Barrocal, a family-owned estate spread across 780 hectares filled with farmlands, gardens and vineyards. Think luxe but understated, with nature and history at the forefront. My kind of place.

Hotel history and overview

São Lourenço do Barrocal has been in the same family for over 200 years, dating back eight generations. The current owner decided to revitalize the former farming village and reinvent it as a luxury hotel, while still maintaining the charming history of the site. To arrive at the property, you drive down a gravel road lined by olive trees and offering views of Monsaraz, a medieval village perched on a nearby hillside. I was in love at first sight.

All of the 57 rooms, the restaurant, bar and reception are housed in white-washed, blue-accented, tile-roofed buildings flanking a cobblestone path (no cars allowed; you park in a lot at no charge and the staff brings a golf cart to transport your bags to your room). You immediately get the sense that you are in a farming village, albeit one with all the modern amenities you could desire.

Property amenities

The primary amenities (restaurant, bar, two pools, spa, small fitness center) are all clustered near the village (or “monte” as they call it in Portugal), which makes everything easy to access.

Food & Beverage

Only two F&B options were open during my stay in early April: the main restaurant and the main hotel bar. Breakfast was included with my stay every morning at the restaurant–not to be missed! I also had dinner at the restaurant one night and dinner at the bar the other night. All the food was fantastic and I was enraptured with the design and ambiance everywhere. There are other excellent restaurants in the area, but they all require a drive, so it’s important to know that you’ll be eating well if you decide to stay onsite.

During the summer season a farm-to-table restaurant (Hortelão) is open for dinners by the pool and garden. I would have loved to experience this. There is also a pool bar that is open for lighter dishes during the day in the summer.

And let’s not forget the wine. When staying on a property chock-full of vineyards, you’d be remiss to skip the wine tasting. While offered at an additional charge, I of course had to experience the tasting and the opportunity to learn more about the wines and the estate. São Lourenço offers a couple different tasting options at different times of the day, and advance reservations are required. Highly recommeded.

Hiking/Biking

If you wish to get out and explore the 780 hectares of the property, there are several trails that you can easily access on foot or on bicycle (standard bikes are complimentary for guests to use, with e-bikes also available at an additional charge). This is a huge selling point for me, as I love to be active when I travel, with convenience and exclusivity being an added bonus. I spent about an hour cycling around one morning and saw zero other people on the trails. And the views of the vineyards, olive groves, wildflowers, and Monsaraz? Breathtaking.

Pools

There are two pools onsite; only one was technically open when I stayed, but they both looked lovely. I fortunately got to experience some abundant sunshine in early April and was quite happy chilling at the pool with a glass of rosé in the afternoon. Given the small size of the property, I don’t think you’d have to worry about the pools getting over-crowded during the busier-and-hotter summer season.

Spa/Fitness

Regrettably, I did not get to indulge at the spa, and I chose a bike ride over a trip to the gym, so I can’t speak from personal experience here. The gym seems to be small, but serviceable, and the spa looks quite nice and aligned with the rest of the property, offering all-natural Susanne Kaufmann products.

Room category recommendations

Admittedly I did not do a tour of the rooms at São Lourenço do Barrocal, but I feel like I got to see enough being onsite that I can give some confident recommendations. Also, because of the nature of the property, all of the rooms are slightly different, so keep in mind that you’re generally not going to be guaranteed a certain feature (I.e. outdoor patio) unless it is specifically promised with the room category. Of course I can do my best to put in requests to give you the best chance for the best room if you book with me.

I stayed in one of the entry level Winery Rooms, but was given a very private one on the end of the building with an outdoor patio opening up to a grassy courtyard and reflecting pool. Personally, this was plenty for me, as I didn’t plan to spend too much time in the room, and it was just me and a friend for two nights.

If you want guaranteed private outdoor space as a couple (or with a small child), go for a Courtyard Room or a Farm Room, or a Suite if you want even more space. After that, there are even larger cottages available (ranging from 1-3BR).

Overall, the property felt welcoming to all kinds of travelers: families, couples, groups of friends, even solo travelers. It wasn’t overwhelmingly family-oriented, nor was it solely romantic.

Activities around São Lourenço do Barrocal

If you can manage to tear yourself away from this gorgeous property, there is plenty on offer nearby. Below I’m only listing the things that I did, but there are a lot more possibilities if you have more time.

• Évora – The capital of Alentejo, Évora felt busier than anywhere else I visited in the region, but it was still worth a visit to walk around and see the cathedral. It was also a convenient stop for a break between Comporta and São Lourenço do Barrocal. Just beware of driving and parking in the medieval village. I got laughed/yelled at for driving the wrong way down a one way street but felt redeemed when I found a solid parking spot and didn’t get a parking ticket (at least I hope not…) I didn’t have time for a tasting at Cartuxa but would’ve loved to have made it happen.

• Monsaraz – This tiny medieval village is so freaking charming and just a ten minute drive from São Lourenço do Barrocal. I went in the morning and it was desolate–in a good way. Still, I think it would be quite fun to walk around and shop, have lunch, drinks, dinner, etc. later in the day.

• Herdade do Esporão – This winery also features an incredible fine dining restaurant. I would have loved to have booked a tasting followed by a long tasting menu lunch plus wine pairings, but alas I had to drive back to the hotel so responsibility prevailed. Still, my two-course lunch did not disappoint and the ambiance was stunning.

Logistics: Best time to visit and getting around

First of all, you have to rent a car. São Lourenço do Barrocal is a two hour drive from Lisbon and a lot of the time you’ll be driving through the countryside. It’s straightforward and it’s beautiful. Once you get to the hotel you’ll need a car to get around, unless you book a tour that includes transportation for the day. Don’t expect to find Uber or taxis here.

I visited in early April, which was a bit too early to be able to enjoy all that the hotel had to offer, but was still delightful with mostly sunny skies and very little crowds. Plus the wildflowers were mind-blowing. To enjoy the best experience I’d suggest late April to early June or September to October. July to August is likely going to be extremely hot, plus peak crowds and the rates that come along with that.