I was originally planning to visit Budapest for the first time in April 2020, but we all know why that didn’t happen. As the world started to reopen, Hungary’s capital city was of course high on my travel list and I was able to make the trip happen for real in May 2022. So happy I did! Budapest is a gorgeous city full of impressive architecture, not to mention a rich history and a strong culture.

A couple other notes about my trip before I get into the details: first, I traveled solo, and felt perfectly comfortable and safe doing so. Second, when I visited in mid-May, central Europe was enduring its first heat wave of the summer, with temperatures reaching 90 degrees Fahrenheit for a few days. Fortunately I missed the worst of it and I got to enjoy temps in the low-to-mid 80s during my time in Budapest, but this was still unusual for May. Regardless, with climate change very much a real thing, I can’t help but call out that July/August weather in central Europe could be quite uncomfortable.

I’d say May/June or September/October would be the best times of the year to visit this region for warm (but not too warm) weather. December could also be a fun time to see all the holiday decorations and visit the Christmas markets.

Okay, let’s get on with it.

Things to Do in Budapest

I’ve broken this section up into two parts: things that I did, and things that I didn’t get to do. Three days in Budapest should be sufficient for most first-time visitors, as the majority of people are going to choose a handful of activities that interest them from the long list of options available.

Things that I did

Take a historic walking tour

If you have any interest in history whatsoever, a historical tour is a must-do. Hungarians first arrived in the area in the 9th century and the city has ancient roots dating back to both the Roman and Ottoman empires. Of course, Budapest was also a key city in the Austro-Hungarian empire until World War I, after which Hungary became an independent country. There’s so much to dig into here: the story of Buda vs. Pest, the fact that Hungarians actually call themselves Magyars, Hungary’s relationship with Romania, the current state of Hungarian politics and culture… Just take a tour with a local expert because I’m not going to do any of this justice.

Indulge in some lángos at Central Market Hall

If there was one thing I had to eat in Budapest it was lángos. Coined “communist pizza” by one of my guides, lángos is essentially deep-fried dough traditionally topped with sour cream, garlic and shredded cheese, although modern variations can include meat, veggies, greens and more. Lángos is a local street food that locals typically eat for breakfast, but some establishments serve it all day long.

Central Market Hall is a massive market that caters to both locals and visitors. The ground floor is a standard food market, with stalls for meats, fish, cheeses, produce, baked goods, etc. The next floor (first floor by European standards, second floor for Americans) caters mostly to tourists, with loads of souvenirs and trinkets. The top floor is essentially a food court; this is where I bellied up to the lángos counter and ordered my own version of communist pizza, then found an open bench and chowed down while enjoying some people-watching around me.

Then it was time for some much-needed exercise, which brought me to my next activity…

Walk to the top of Gellert Hill

Gellert Hill is a peak on the Buda side of the city with incredible views overlooking the Danube. It also has some crazy history, as it is named after a saint who was apparently killed by pagans who put him in a barrel and rolled him all the way down the steep hill to his death. WTF, right?

Now, many locals and some visitors (hi, it’s me) enjoy the views from the top of the hill with picnics and selfies. RIP Saint Gellert.

Learn about Hungarian wine with a day trip to the Etyek wine region

Hungary is best known for Tokaji wine, a sweet dessert wine from the Tokaj region of the country. While I would’ve loved to visit Tokaj, it is nearly a three hour drive each way from Budapest, so not exactly an easy day trip. Fortunately, Hungary’s lesser-known Etyek wine region is just a thirty minute drive from Budapest and I was able to find a great small group wine tour that included visits to three family-owned wineries, plus a home-cooked meal at the last one.

Since Hungarian wine isn’t mass-produced it is difficult to find outside of the country, as very few bottles are exported. Visiting wineries in Etyek was a completely different experience than wine tasting somewhere like Napa; everywhere felt very unique and personal. I loved it.

Enjoy the nightlife

Budapest is known for its “ruin bar” scene, originating with the Szimpla Kert bar that took a decrepit building in the city’s Jewish quarter and turned it into a casual and quirky nightlife spot. I was curious to see what the ruin bars were all about, but I was visiting Budapest on a weekend in mid-May and I quickly found that the bar scene was packed with very drunk visitors (many of them young British men, no offense to my favorite Brits out there).

Thanks to a recommendation from my brother I found Boutiq Bar, a cocktail bar that was much more my speed. Then I ended my night with a classy live music scene at Múzsa, the cocktail bar at the Four Seasons Gresham Palace (which also happened to be where I was staying).

Things that I did not do

Visit Dohany Street Synagogue

The largest in all of Europe, Dohany Street Synagogue is supposed to be impressively beautiful, not to mention historically important. I ran out of time and was not able to visit, but it’s on the top of my list for my second visit to Budapest.

Enjoy the thermal baths

Budapest is famous for its thermal baths, which offer a range of options from social “sparties” to relaxing therapeutic experiences. Lonely Planet has a good guide to help you decide which version is right for you.

Take a cruise along the Danube River

Whether on a private cruise or a shared boat, a cruise along the Danube is an excellent way to see both sides of Budapest from a different perspective. I personally think twilight/sunset would be the perfect time to cruise the Danube (and get some amazing pictures).

Where to stay in Budapest

Since Budapest is a mid-sized city there aren’t an overwhelming number of options for accommodations, but it does offer some excellent choices. I have a couple of personal favorites, but that’s not to say that everything else is terrible. However, my top choices are:

• Four Seasons Gresham Palace – This is where I stayed. It’s the top luxury hotel in the city in a historic building and has an incredible location right on the Danube. I don’t always love the Four Seasons as the rooms tend to be generic (albeit very nice), but sometimes it’s simply the best option in a destination. Also, the service is always impeccable and they invest a lot in F&B, which I appreciate (see my comment above about live music at Múzsa).

• Aria Hotel – This hotel has a musical theme, with several wings inspired by different genres of music. The location is great, close to Saint Stephen’s Basilica, and it offers a daily wine reception for guests, plus a beautiful rooftop bar.

General Budapest travel tips

• Transportation
  • As noted above, public transportation is convenient and cost-effective if you’re willing to take the effort to figure it out. It’s really not too complicated and people are generally friendly if you need to ask for help.
  • Uber and Lyft are not available in Hungary, but Bolt is. I used Bolt a couple times and found it to be hit or miss. It generally took a long time for my taxi to come, especially when I needed a ride to the train station on a Sunday. I would advise giving yourself plenty of time just to be safe.
• Currency
  • Hungary is not on the euro and has its own currency: the forint. For the most part credit cards are accepted but I’d advise getting some forints for gratuities at least
• Gratuities
  • On that note, tipping is very much a thing in Hungary. Plan on tipping at restaurants (10-15%), hotels (coins for bellboys, porters, housekeeping), taxis (10%), tour guides (depends on level of service). Of course none of this is mandatory, but it is very much appreciated.
• Language
  • Hungarian/Magyar is the official language of Hungary, but you’ll find that English is widely spoken in Budapest, for better or worse