A progressive, bicycle-friendly Nordic city known for its cutting-edge food & beverage scene, Copenhagen had spent quite a bit of time high on my travel list. I had to cancel my initial solo trip in April 2020 for obvious reasons, but saved all my research with hopes of rescheduling my visit in the not-so-distant future.

When my friend Gina told me that she was going to spend several weeks in Copenhagen in September 2021, I couldn’t help but jump onboard. I booked a five night stay late in the month; while the temperatures were starting to get chilly, the city was experiencing a renaissance of sorts. After rolling out a successful vaccine campaign, Denmark was reporting extremely low COVID cases and had finally ended the last of its pandemic-related restrictions. No curfews, no social distancing, no masks–I’ll admit the part about no masks indoors felt strange at first, but the numbers and science seemed to support it, so I decided to embrace the sense of normalcy while we had it.

A Few General Tips

Pandemic aside, I learned a few things during my trip that will likely continue to be relevant going forward.

Traveling to Copenhagen from the U.S.

Nonstop flights are hard to come by. You may be able to find a nonstop flight on SAS (Star Alliance partner if you’re a United fan, which I do not understand but okay). Otherwise, the best bet would be flying into a major European hub, then connecting into Copenhagen. Delta was flirting with seasonal nonstop flights between JFK and CPH in 2020 before the pandemic shut that down. In fall 2021 I opted to fly through Amsterdam with KLM so I could stick with SkyTeam and use Global Upgrade Certificates to fly Business for the bargain price of $600 roundtrip(!)

Getting Around the City

Denmark does not have Uber or Lyft, as ride-sharing services were banned by the country several years ago. Taxis are easy to get from the airport, hotels and restaurants, or at designated pick-up spots. They aren’t the cheapest option, but they do take credit cards.

Copenhagen has excellent public transportation, but it was difficult to figure out as a foreigner. The system itself was straightforward enough, but the process to buy a ticket seemed to require you to have a local phone number. Gina admitted that she took the subway for free a couple times because she couldn’t figure out how to buy a ticket–even when she asked the agents at the station they let her through because they weren’t equipped to take her money directly.

Bicycles are an ideal way to get around. I only rode a bike one day (with a tour–admittedly, I may have been taking the easy way out). However, if you are a bit more adventurous than I am and would prefer biking over walking, you can’t beat riding a bicycle through Copenhagen. The city is extremely bike-friendly and way less intimidating than other heavily-trafficked places like Amsterdam.

Finally, my transportation mode of choice: walking. Depending on your destination, Copenhagen can be a very pedestrian-friendly city, and I’d argue that walking is the best way to explore a new place. Aside from my cycling day and a handful of taxi rides, I mostly got around on foot.

Cash & Tipping

No need to take out cash. Although a member of the EU, Denmark uses its own currency (the krone) and I had no desire to acquire more foreign bills that I likely wouldn’t spend. I paid with a credit card throughout my stay without any issues.

Tipping is not expected. We added 10% to the final bill at a couple high-end bars and restaurants with exceptional hospitality. However, this is not a cultural norm as Denmark has a large social safety net and residents are paid a living wage regardless of the industry they work in. I couldn’t help but be envious as a resident of the hyper-capitalist U.S. of A. Of course this means a higher tax rate in Denmark, so I’ll admit there is a trade-off… but I’m not here to get into a discussion about politics.

Speaking the Language

Learning Danish is absolutely not necessary as everyone speaks English. I actually took some Duolingo courses on Danish in an attempt to learn a few basic words, but quickly realized it was a complete waste of my time. Unless you are moving to Denmark and wish to assimilate into the culture, you can get by just fine speaking English as a visitor.

Where to Stay in Copenhagen

I was eager to check out the hotel scene in the city, so I turned my five night stay into a whirlwind hotel tour. Most visitors stay in central Copenhagen, and there are a cluster of hotels conveniently located by Tivoli Gardens, City Hall and Copenhagen Central Station. All three hotels I stayed in were in this area, and I’d recommend any of them (although I did have a favorite).

Nobis Hotel

My first stop was Nobis Hotel, a member of Design Hotels, and a sister property to the flagship Nobis Stockholm. Housed in a former music conservatory, the hotel features contemporary Scandinavian design and minimalist furnishings. My deluxe room was on the small side (237 square feet), but average for a city hotel, and the layout made it feel plenty spacious for one person.

The property itself felt intimate, with a small lobby and a beautiful restaurant (NOI) and bar (The Marble Bar) on the ground floor. It also has a gym, a sauna and hammam, and bicycles available for rent.

Service was friendly and efficient, but not particularly personal. I got the feeling that the staff would be happy to help if I asked for anything, but they also weren’t going out of their way to make me feel at home. However, sometimes it’s nice to just enjoy your privacy–it depends on the kind of hospitality you want.

Villa Copenhagen

Next I spent one night at Villa Copenhagen, a member of Preferred Hotels and one of the city’s newest properties. The hotel’s design felt similar to that of Nobis Hotel, as it is located in a historic building from the early 20th century and features clean, simple and modern Scandinavian design.

Walking into the building and checking in felt a bit hectic, as Reception is located in a corner of a large, open lobby that also serves as a gathering place, with a bar in the opposite corner. One of Villa Copenhagen’s unique selling points is a small outdoor rooftop pool, although it was cold and rainy when I stayed at the hotel, so I didn’t get to check it out myself. Hotel guests receive 30 minutes at the pool per night, which must be booked in advance. You also have the option to book more time for a fee.

Once again, the service was friendly, but nothing special. Overall, I’d rate Nobis Hotel and Villa Copenhagen as fairly comparable. Nobis felt slightly more intimate and private, but the pool at Villa Copenhagen would be particularly compelling in the summer months.

Nimb Hotel

I chose to spend my last two nights at Nimb Hotel, which I expected to be a notch above Nobis and Villa Copenhagen. And it was–perhaps even two or three–but of course it had a price tag to match. Still, I would highly recommend the splurge if you can do it.

With only 38 rooms, the property feels sumptuously cozy, evoking that desirable hygge feeling so embraced by the Danes. It blends Moorish design with whimsical fairytale accents and minimalist Scandinavian influences into a unique, sophisticated aesthetic that somehow works. The rooms include vintage furniture and custom artwork so that no two are alike.

Nimb also doesn’t skimp on amenities. There are a number of dining options; breakfast at Nimb Brasserie was included with my room and was absolutely delightful. I ended up at Nimb Bar both nights, once on my own when Gina stayed in, and the next because Gina had to see it for herself when I told her about it. Worth a visit even if you’re not staying at the hotel. One thing I did not get to experience: the underground hammam and relaxation lounge, which I am sure are incredible. Well, I had to save something for my next visit.

I also can’t forget to mention that the hotel also has an outdoor rooftop pool. I lucked out and experienced a relatively warm and sunny late-September morning the day I checked in to Nimb, so I spent an hour on the roof while I waited for my room to be ready. While it wasn’t quite hot enough to lie out in a swimsuit, the pool was heated to a temperature that would have felt comfortable to swim in. Unlike the Villa Copenhagen pool, no reservations are required at the Nimb pool, and there is no limit on the time that guests can spend up there. Additionally, the roof was immense for a hotel with only 38 rooms, and there was ample space for guests (and locals who pay to be Nimb Club members) to spread out, although I had the entire space to myself.

Another one of Nimb’s selling points: it is located adjacent to Copenhagen’s beloved Tivoli Gardens, and many rooms have views of the park. I was upgraded to a Deluxe Balcony Room–not only did it have a large private balcony overlooking Tivoli, but it was the most spacious room of my trip at 500 square feet. I had a separate seating area with a minibar full of curated local products. The bathroom featured a a dual vanity and a huge two-person Agape bathtub, which I of course savored having all to myself. Ah yes, there is a reason I like to save the best for last.

Where to Eat in Copenhagen

It is no secret that Copenhagen has a thriving food scene. Most famous for Noma, René Redzepi’s restaurant that put New Nordic cuisine on the map in the early 2000s (and was named the #1 restaurant in the world shortly after our visit), the city offers a diverse range of options for every appetite. Simple comfort food, traditional Nordic fare, inventive fine dining–I wanted to experience a bit of it all.

We looked into dining at Noma, but of course reservations were not easy to come by given that I had only booked my trip a couple weeks in advance. However, one consolation: Noma changes its menu seasonally, and had just switched to its Game & Forest Season a few days before my arrival. As a pescatarian who has only tasted meat a couple times in my life, I figured the Ocean Season or Vegetable Season would be better suited for me. Just another reason I’d have to return.

Geranium

An even better consolation: we were able to score a last minute reservation at Geranium, another three-Michelin-star restaurant that was named #2 in the world after our visit. It was also perfect for my special dietary needs as only two of the dishes on the 16-course Autumn Universe menu included meat.

Getting the reservation was a complete stroke of luck (and kind of a long story–feel free to skip ahead). I had randomly posted a story on Instagram asking for Copenhagen recommendations before my trip. Well, it turns out that one of the people I had met during my travels in 2019 was a chef from Australia (we met in the Maldives while he was on holiday from his role as chef for the Saudi royal family–not sure it gets more random than that!) Chef Anthony had a buddy who worked at Geranium and when he learned that I was on the wait list for a reservation at the restaurant, he told me to stand by. “Check your email,” he cryptically DM’ed me a few days later. Sure enough, there was an email from Geranium, asking me to pay a deposit to confirm my reservation, on a Saturday night nonetheless. SCORE Chef Anthony!

Anyway, the entire meal and experience was completely worth the hype. We were seated at a corner table with a view overlooking the rest of the dining room and the open kitchen. Each creative course was presented expertly, with a detailed explanation (and often including instructions on how exactly to eat the dish). The wine pairings were excellent, the food was well-executed, and the hospitality was warm and welcoming. It was a fun and memorable evening that was a highlight of the trip.

Aamans 1921

A new thing I learned during my first full day in Copenhagen: one of their prized local dishes is an open-faced sandwich called smørrebrød. Typically served on a thin slice of sourdough rye bread, there are a number of different varieties, although traditional toppings include pickled herrings, sliced cheese, cucumber, tomato, cured meats, smoked fish and rich, creamy sauces. We opted to try a few selections for lunch at Aamans 1921, a sleek restaurant that exuded hygge with an extensive menu of schnapps. We were able to walk in since we showed up early in the day, but I’d recommend a reservation for a prime-time table.

Amass

Our other fine dining meal was at Amass, which also featured a tasting menu and wine pairings, but with a decidedly different vibe than the ambiance at Geranium. As Gina put it, “If Geranium is Manhattan, Amass is Brooklyn.” Located on the hip, post-industrial island of Refshaleøen, Amass is in a warehouse with concrete walls, high ceilings and bright, edgy murals.

Run by former Noma head chef Matt Orlando, Amass is known for its zero-waste philosophy, serving produce grown in the onsite garden and greenhouse. We enjoyed being able to contrast the experiences at Geranium and Amass; unsurprisingly we agreed that Geranium came out on top, as we didn’t love some dishes and the service wasn’t quite as polished. However, the price point at Amass makes the restaurant much more accessible, and it was a lot more straightforward to get a reservation–no connections needed.

DØP

The other traditional Danish dish that I’d recommend seeking out in Copenhagen: hot dogs. Yep, hot dogs are a beloved Nordic specialty. Gina had found an organic hot dog stand called DØP before I arrived in town; it offered a large variety of options for both hot dogs (including vegetarian!) and condiments (spicy ketchup! mustard! remoulade! pickles! friend onions!) While I don’t typically crave meat or even fake meat, I do have a thing for hot dogs, even if just as a vehicle for delivering delicious condiments into my mouth.

Where to Drink in Copenhagen

After almost two years of not being able to sit at a bar and enjoy a well-crafted cocktail, Gina and I were both ready to make up for the missed time in Copenhagen. Although it felt weird at first to walk into a crowded bar sans face mask, I decided to embrace it while I could. In between all the eating, we tried a number of different bars and even ended up repeating a couple. Here are our favorites:

Ruby

We went here on both my first and last night in the city. Located in an old townhouse, Ruby is comprised of several rooms, but we chose to stay in the brighter front room, close to the bar and overlooking one of Copenhagen’s canals. The bar team always recognized us and were very friendly and sociable, giving us a boomerang to bring to the team at TATA one night when we told them we were headed there next (a boomerang is basically a shot or shots delivered from one bartending team to another from a trusted guest).

On my last night we gushed to the British bartender about how fun and friendly we found the Danes. “They’re okay,” he deadpanned with signature dry British humor. “But they really like their apartments and most of the week they stay at home. Then they come out on the weekends and they get really drunk and awkward.” Well, I guess he’d know better than we did.

TATA

As mentioned, our next stop after Ruby on my first night was TATA, a high-end cocktail bar located in the luxurious Hotel Sanders. We were surprised when we walked in to see a slightly older, more sophisticated crowd dressed up in suits and cocktail attire. Copenhagen is generally a pretty casual city (one woman wore sneakers to dinner at Geranium–they were trendy, but still sneakers), and this was the first and only time I felt under-dressed. It turned out that the hotel was a block from Stærekassen, a nearby theater house, and we had run into the pre-theater crowd.

Sheepishly, we handed the shot glasses covered in plastic wrap and streaked in rain to the bartender at TATA. “From Ruby,” we explained. He just laughed, stashing the shots away for later, and pouring us welcome glasses of aquavit as an expression of gratitude. A traditional Scandinavian spirit, aquavit is flavored with various herbs and spices, most commonly carraway and dill.

Once the uppity theater-goers streamed out, we were able to settle in at the bar and chat more with the team. Despite our awkward entrance, TATA ultimately ended up being one of our favorite bars.

Pulp

Located a bit farther from most of our central Copenhagen hangs, Pulp stands for “Parlour Unites Local People.” It had a fun, casual, slightly quirky vibe that I loved. We arrived right after they opened, so we were the only people at the bar and were able to chat extensively with the bartender, which I always enjoy. Just another thing I had missed for so long!

Nimb Bar

As I mentioned previously, the Nimb Bar is worth a visit even if you’re not staying at the hotel. I was worried that it would feel like a stuffy hotel bar, but it actually had very impressive cocktails and fun, chatty bartenders. The ambiance was a bit grand as the bar is literally in a ballroom, but it still felt cozy and inviting. Plus, it’s open on Sundays and Mondays when many other bars in the city are closed.

What do Do in Copenhagen

Aside from eating and drinking, there is plenty to do and see in Copenhagen depending on your interests: history, culture, art and design, general sightseeing… we did a little bit of everything.

Hey Captain Canal Tour

Gina had booked a two hour “Hidden Gems” boat tour on the afternoon that I arrived in the city, so I of course had to tag along, jet lag be damned. Hey Captain emphasizes the concept of “social sailing,” with the goal of making the the experience more of a casual time on the water with friends rather than a formal tour. I would say they succeeded: our guide was very laidback and spent very little time in teacher mode, instead letting our small group of eight chat with each other. The boat also came stocked with beer and wine (provided at an additional charge) to help create a convivial atmosphere.

Bicycle Tour

I booked a three hour bike tour through Airbnb Experiences for my first full day in Copenhagen, which was the perfect way to see a bunch of the main sights, orient myself in the city, and learn a bit more about Danish culture and history. Our small group cycled all through central Copenhagen, stopping frequently to check out various sights.

Some of the stops that we made:

• Rosenborg Castle – This renaissance-era castle is home to the Danish crown jewels and surrounded by beautiful gardens. The park seemed like it would be the perfect spot for a picnic in the summer.

• The Little Mermaid sculpture – One of the most iconic sights in Copenhagen, the Little Mermaid is based on the famed fairy tale by Danish author Hans Christian Andersen. Our guide reminded us that the original story does not have a happy ending like the Disney version.

• Nyhavn – Probably the only sight more iconic than Little Mermaid is Nyhavn, with its oft-photographed rows of colorful buildings. Gina and I returned here on my last day to sit under heat lamps with a glass of wine–definitely a great place for a drink, but the food generally seemed uninspiring and over-priced.

• Amalienborg Palace – Home to the Danish royal family, the palace grounds also includes a museum about the monarchy, which is apparently the oldest in Europe. Our guide emphasized how down-to-earth the Danish royals are, with little of the elitism associated with with other royal families. From the courtyard of the palace, you can also look directly across to the Copenhagen Opera House, another notable sight in the city.

Tivoli Gardens

One of the oldest operating amusement parks in the world, Tivoli also offers a number of cultural activities and performances, plus numerous places to eat and drink in between wandering the beautifully-maintained gardens. We happened to be in town the last weekend that rides were operating for the season, so we of course had to channel our inner children and go on some rollercoasters. It had been many years since I had been to an amusement park, so I wasn’t sure what I’d think, but I found Tivoli Gardens to be delightful.

Perhaps it’s my jaded view of American society, but it also seemed much more egalitarian, inclusive and artistic than U.S. theme parks. There were no fast passes to cut to the front of the line, the children were all well-behaved, and it seemed to be a multi-generational activity, with the parents and grandparents enjoying cocktails while the kids roamed the park.

Freetown Christiania

We of course had to walk through this controversial hippie commune to see what it was like, although we didn’t stay for long. Coincidentally, we were visiting on the day of the alternative community’s 50th anniversary, so the “town” was even more crazed than usual. We did walk by “Pusher Street,” where cannabis sales are tolerated by the local law enforcement, even though selling drugs is technically illegal in Denmark (the country isn’t THAT progressive).

Danish Architecture Centre

After our adventure at Freetown Christiania (really not that exciting), we walked by the Danish Architecture Centre (DAC) so we decided to check it out. It was just okay, but I did find the exhibit on the humane and beautiful high-security prison recently built in Greenland fascinating. If you’re traveling with younger kids, DAC would be a great place to visit, as it offers numerous interactive exhibits geared toward children.

Amager Bakke (aka CopenHill)

Okay, I did not actually visit this unique power plant, but it was hard not to miss the distinctive architecture of the incinerator that doubles as a ski slope. Yep, you can ski down a power plant in Copenhagen year-round. You can also sled, hike and climb up world’s tallest climbing wall.

Overall, I loved the city of Copenhagen. It seemed to have a bit of everything–great food and cocktails, beautiful design, unique culture and friendly people. Five nights felt like the perfect amount of time to see and do almost everything without feeling too rushed. It was also safe, accessible, and easy to get around–I think it would be a terrific destination for a solo traveler, but also great for couples, families and groups of friends. I was glad to finally have been able to make the trip and would love to return, hopefully next time in the summer, Noma Vegetable Season reservation in hand.