After a delectable two nights in San Sebastián, it was time to get my road trip on. My last destination in Spain would be the Rioja wine region, located about a two hour’s drive southwest from San Sebastián. I walked to the Sixt rental car office across the bridge from Hotel Maria Cristina, picked up my vehicle, drove around in a couple circles, collected my luggage back at the hotel, and was on my way.

The scenery on the road was stunning, although it was difficult to record since I was driving on my own
Here’s an attempt at a close-up. I was driving by medieval villages on the side of the highway! Suffice it to say, this was a lot different than the cross-country road trips I had experienced in the US.

Staying at the Hotel Marqués de Riscal

For my accommodations in Rioja, I knew I needed to stay at the magnificent Hotel Marqués de Riscal in Elciego. Part of Marriott’s Luxury Collection, the distinctive Frank Gehry-designed property was built in the middle of the Marqués de Riscal winery, surrounded by vineyards.

I had to laugh when the man checking me in asked why I had decided to visit the middle of nowhere in Spain. Hmm. Because it was beautiful and I wanted to drink great wine. Was that an acceptable answer? I’m guessing he didn’t ask everyone that question.

Told you it was designed by Frank Gehry
View from the hotel hallway
I didn’t love the dark red theme in my room, but I could excuse it in wine country
I always loved having a king bed all to myself
The view from my room overlooking vineyards
My bathroom was simply amazing and the Caudalie bath products were an added bonus

Rioja Wine Tour

The entire point of going to Rioja was to drink some wine (got that, Hotel Marqués de Riscal reception guy?), and I booked a wine tour in advance for my one full day in the region through Thabuca Wine Tours. Their website claimed a minimum booking for two people, although when I emailed them, they said I could book for one, but would need to pay a single supplement (roughly a 20% premium on the cost per person). If other people opted to join, they would refund me for the supplemental charge. Fair enough.

Wine tasting day rolled around, and I was still the only person booked for the tour, so I ended up enjoying a private tour for less than $300. I couldn’t complain about that. My local guide, Marta, was an energetic and warm woman in her 30s who put me at ease immediately. We bonded over a love for travel, independence and, of course, wine. Marta had a young daughter, but she dreamed about eventually uprooting their life and seeing the world together. Of course, I supported this goal.

First stop: Gómez Cruzado

We started the day with a private tour at Gómez Cruzado, which was one of the oldest wineries in Rioja and one of the smallest producers in the traditional railroad district of the region. The guide quickly ascertained that I knew my shit after going on numerous wine tours the past few months, so we were able to efficiently cut to the chase and enjoy a tasting after a cursory walkthrough of the facilities. Sadly, I don’t recall the name of the guide, but she was good friends with Marta, and they included me in their gossip as we drank wine together (Marta was a professional and restrained herself). It almost felt like I was hanging out with friends from home.

Next, we drove up to Bastida, also known as Labastida, one of the historic villages in the region
Marta insisted on stopping and taking my picture on the side of the road here. How brave was I to wear a white dress while wine tasting in Rioja?
View when I wasn’t in the picture. So much green.
Our second winery visit was Bai Gorri, which produced a large amount of wine and boasted a stunning modern architectural design. However, I had to join a group tour/tasting, and the experience was much less personal than at Gómez Cruzado.
Look at all of those barrels
Back at Marqués de Riscal, I parted ways with Marta and joined a tour of the winery onsite

After the wine tour, I opted to stay at the hotel for a casual dinner overlooking the vineyards. The travelers drinking with me were mostly Americans, and I tried to stay out of their conversation, but got pulled in against my will. On one hand, it was flattering when I told them my story, and they all reacted with envy and awe. On the other hand, I was getting sick of facing the ignorance from my fellow countrymen. Before I started chatting with them, they were trying to remember where the Alhambra was located, and guessed it was in Mallorca. Wait, what?! I couldn’t imagine how one could ever get an island confused with Andalusía, but I restrained myself from providing an uninvited geography lesson.

The stunning view of the village of Elciego from Marqués de Riscal
It was hard to beat this sunset view despite the ignorant company

Sadly, this would be my last night in Spain for the foreseeable future. The following morning, I would drive to Bilbao, catch a flight to Madrid, meet my friend Karen, fly to Porto, pick up a rental car, and begin a new adventure in Portugal. I was pumped to be visiting a new country in Europe, but bummed to be leaving Spain. Hopefully I’d be back sooner rather than later.

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