I first visited Cape Town in early May 2019. It was my first time in Africa but I just knew I would love Cape Town. Beautiful beaches, scenic hiking trails and a quick drive to winelands nearby? Literally all of my favorite things. In fact, I enjoyed Cape Town so much that I decided to return for three weeks in February 2020 to escape frigid NYC winter in exchange for sunny southern hemisphere summer. After spending a month in Cape Town over the course of a year, I got to know the city quite well and of course have numerous recommendations to share here!

What to Do

Areas to Explore

• Bo Kaap – Oldest neighborhood in Cape Town that used to be slave quarters. Now it’s a popular tourist destination with a ton of brightly colored houses. You can walk through quickly and take some pictures – doesn’t require a lot of time, but is worthwhile to understand the history of the neighborhood vs. just treating it like Instagram paradise.

• Camps Bay Beach & Clifton Beaches – If you’re visiting during the summer and are a beach baby, this is where you want to be! Camps Bay feels a bit more touristy as it’s located along a strip of restaurants/bars, but all these beaches (Clifton is actually technically made up four beaches!) offer incredible views.
• Coastal walk from Camps Bay to Bantry Bay – Especially if you’re staying in Camps Bay, Clifton or Bantry Bay, the path along the coast is gorgeous. Lots of sea views and glimpses of the Twelve Apostles. Also a great running route, as long it’s not too windy.
• Kirstenbosch – Beautiful botanic gardens. A bit of a trek from central Cape Town, but if you’re looking for a nice, safe nature walk where you can see a bunch of indigenous plants, this is the place. You could also bring a bottle of wine and have a picnic. We had lunch at the restaurant and it was of course very touristy but the food was decent.

• Seapoint Promenade – The views aren’t as dramatic as the coastal path from Camps Bay to Bantry Bay (in my opinion), but it’s a very relaxed, safe walk (or run or bike ride) along the coast. You do get great glimpses of Lions Head and can also watch the paragliders descending from Signal Hill on a nice day.
• Victoria & Alfred (V&A) Waterfront – This is a very touristy part of town, so I wouldn’t spend a lot of time here and I wouldn’t choose to stay here either. That being said, it’s not as bad as Times Square or Fisherman’s Wharf and is not to be avoided 100% like both of those hellish tourist traps. Many of the museums in Cape Town are in this area. The boat to Robben Island departs from here, and you can also book a boat ride to see Cape Town from the water (I did this with some expats my friend Johnny introduced me to and it was fun, but I wouldn’t say it’s a must-do as a visitor). The V&A Food Market is also decent.

Hang out at the Markets

• Old Biscuit Mill – This is a fun market in the same complex that houses Pot Luck Club and The Test Kitchen (more about those restaurants later). It has a hipster vibe, tons of food stalls and local artisan goods. I went for a couple hours on a Saturday morning; they had live music and day drinking was certainly not discouraged. If you want to buy souvenirs to take home, I’d recommend this and the Oranjezicht market to support the locals and get authentic stuff vs. crap made in China. Open 9am-4pm every day but Sunday.

• Oranjezicht City Farm Market – This incredible market is close to the V&A waterfront and has great shopping for all sorts of artisanal goods, plus a bunch of really good food vendors. It’s a big scene that is popular with locals. Fun for brunch, shopping and people-watching. Only open on weekends (morning-early afternoon) and Wednesday evenings.

Hiking

• Lions Head – This is a popular hike for sunrise or sunset in particular. It’s also good during the day if it’s clear and not too windy or hot. The views are stunning and it does not take very long, but it is relatively steep/technical in places, requiring some scrambling, climbing ladders, etc. I would not recommend Lions Head for people who are afraid of heights or have mobility issues.
  • We went at sunset and had some wine at the top. However, I’d caution against drinking too much because you’ll be going down as the night is getting progressively darker. It can be a bit of a party scene at the top, which baffles me. An Uber driver told us a story about picking up a teenage kid in the morning after he had gotten too drunk and his friends had left him at the top to pass out(!) Definitely try not to let that happen to you. And a headlamp or flashlight is a very good idea if you’re doing sunrise/sunset.

• Table Mountain – There are a ton of different trails to reach the top of Table Mountain. I hiked on my own (definitely not recommended) so I chose the route that was supposed to be the most popular but also the most boring (Platteklip Gorge). However, it was still not easy (like, all uphill with never ending steep steps). Then I had to hike back down because the cable car wasn’t running due to high winds, and it was much scarier than going up. One misstep and I would have broken my neck. So if you’re not a strong, confident hiker, just take the cable car to the top. There are a number of walking paths at the top to explore and get some physical activity while enjoying the view. 
  • A couple tips regarding the cable car – It closes relatively often due to winds, so plan your visit around a day that is not supposed to be windy. Also, Nina and I arrived at 10am and had to wait in line for over two hours. It’s worth arriving early (the first cable car runs at 8am) to avoid the lines.

• Chapman’s Peak – This is an amazing hike if you’ve already done Lions Head and Table Mountain and are looking to get out of Cape Town and see more of the surrounding area. It was approximately a 30 minute drive from Camps Bay to the trail head, but totally worth it. It’s along the beautiful Chapman’s Peak drive, which you will see if you do a Cape Peninsula tour. I booked a guided hike through Airbnb and loved everything about the experience. The trail is much less popular than Lions Head; we only saw one couple on the way up and one couple on the way down. The host Shawn was also such an interesting person. After completing the hike we enjoyed sundowners in a private spot away from everyone else at the popular and crowded sunset viewpoint.

Day Trips

• Cape Peninsula – Must-do. The coastal drive is beautiful, and you’ll get to stop at a lot of the iconic spots you’ve seen on Instagram (the colorful changing houses at the beach, Cape of Good Hope and of course Boulders Beach for the penguins!) I booked a private tour through my hotel, which was nice and efficient since I was the only person. Nina booked a small group tour through Airbnb (the company was called Local Knowledge), and she loved it. You can also do the Hop-on, Hop-off buses.

• Franschoekk – These winelands are bit farther from Cape Town (1 hour 15 minute drive) than some of the other options, but the town of Franschoekk is adorable. It’s worth staying here for at least a night if you can fit it in, otherwise you can easily take Uber to/from the city and between wine farms as well. Also, I’ve never been to any wine farm in South Africa that required a booking in advance. We visited:
  • Stony Brook
  • La Motte
  • Moreson

• Stellenbosch – Winelands closer to Cape Town than Franschhoek but farther than Constatia (45 minute drive). I’ve visited:
  • Babylonstoren – The restaurant Babel is supposed to be great, but I didn’t book far enough in advance to get us reservations. The property is huge, with gardens that you can tour, a guesthouse and of course the tasting room.

• Boschendal – Another huge property. We just did a tasting, but it looked like a fun place to hang out for a while. We randomly met a celebrity chef and his gorgeous Filipino girlfriend here.
• Delaire Graff – You must go here. Maybe the best views in Stellenbosch. The main restaurant is supposed to be excellent for lunch, but I’ve never been prepared enough to book a reservation (it fills up immediately). I have eaten at their other restaurant (Indochine), which was quite good, but doesn’t have the same views.

• Tokara – Right across the street from Delaire Graff, so it of course makes sense to do both. We had lunch at Tokara (booked in advance) and it was great. Also has really nice views.

• Constantia – Winelands closest to Cape Town (30 minute drive). I went to one wine farm here at the end of my Cape Peninsula tour, but can’t remember what it was called. 🙁

Where to Eat

• Black Sheep – Relaxed restaurant on the popular Kloof Street that has a light and airy vibe. Good for lunch or dinner. I met my brother for lunch here and we were able to walk in without a reservation.

• Chef’s Warehouse – Liam Tomlin is one of two chefs (that I know of, at least) with dynasties in Cape Town. Chef’s Warehouse & Canteen on Bree is his original location. Like all of Tomlin’s restaurants, it doesn’t take reservations so show up early to avoid a wait. Or just show up and plan to have a drink at one of the bars nearby while you wait. Set menu, but accommodating for vegetarians.
• Codfather – Seafood restaurant in Camps Bay that doesn’t have a menu, rather they show you all the fresh-caught fish and have you choose what you want. I honestly didn’t love it, but that was maybe because I let my brother order everything. Other people rave about this place.
• Colcacchio – Thin crust pizza chain. I wouldn’t go out of my way to visit in-person (in fact, I’ve never actually eaten at one of their restaurants), but if you want a casual salad and pizza night, this is the place. Available on Uber Eats if you want takeaway (which is what I’ve done more times than I’d like to admit).
• Eat Like a Local food tour – Recommendation from Vicki & Bill. Good to do early on your trip to get some history and tips for the rest of your time. Rupesh, the guy that runs the tour company (and does the tours) is awesome – great energy, smart guy, very friendly.
• Kloof Street House – Loved this place. Old mansion turned into a restaurant/bar. Very cool vibe, great service, all really good food. Make a reservation.
• Potluck Club – Restaurant by Luke Dale-Roberts located in the Old Biscuit Mill. From what I can ascertain, LDR is THE celebrity chef of Cape Town, most likely due to international recognition and acclaim of The Test Kitchen (see below). Potluck Club is much easier to get into than TTK but still requires advance planning for a reservation. I went with my brother on my first visit to SA and we were both disappointed by the meal. However, most people do rave about this place.
• Salsify – Newest restaurant by LDR, located in Camps Bay and supposed to have great views. I’m bummed that I didn’t take the time to research new restaurants for my most recent visit to Cape Town because I would have loved to try this place and I was too late to get a reservation for dinner. Definitely book in advance.
• Shortmarket Club – Another one by LDR. This was actually my favorite dining experience during my first visit to Cape Town. It somehow does not get as much recognition as Pot Luck Club, but I thought it was better. Fun to have drinks at House of Machines before/after!
• Thali – Indian/African fusion restaurant part of the Chef’s Warehouse collection. I loved this place! No reservations, so show up early. 

• The Test Kitchen – Only Top 50 restaurant in Africa, by LDR as noted above. I had a great experience and thought it was worth the effort to secure the reservation (I had to make it many months out, according to a very annoying schedule in which bookings for several months will all open on one day). Try to snag seats at the chef’s counter.

• Tjing Tjing – Japanese restaurant that is actually four different venues in one: casual space on the ground floor, more formal keiseiki style space upstairs, a lounge and a rooftop bar.

Where to Drink

• Art of Duplicity – Speakeasy behind Truth Coffee in town. Reservations required. I found the space to be a little Disney-esque, but could see how it would be fun for a special night out (they have live music and people get dressed up).
• Chinchilla – The restaurants and bars on the strip in Camps Bay are all pretty much over-priced tourist traps, but if you’re staying in Camps Bay it’s hard to avoid. And you do get a great view of the beach, especially at sunset. Chinchilla was my favorite place for sunset. If you must eat somewhere on the strip, I found Zenzero (ground floor of the same building and also part of Kove Collection) to have the best food (Italian) and service.

• Gin Bar – Light and airy gin bar (duh) “hidden” behind a chocolate store in town. 
• House of Machines – This place has kind of a grungy, hipster vibe but I loved it. Great barrel-aged cocktails and classic indie music that brought me back to my teenage years. Also has tables on the street (right by Shortmarket Club) so you can sip your old fashioned outside while listening to Built to Spill and Pavement.

• The Lawn at the Roundhouse – This place is designed for day drinking, with picnic tables, bean bag chairs, refreshing cocktails, etc. I wouldn’t say it’s a must-do as a visitor but if you’re in town on a nice day and craving a relaxed, outdoor bar scene in which to hang out in Camps Bay, then this is a great option.
• Publik Wine Bar – Wine bar on a happening corner in the Gardens neighborhood. Great local wines that tend to be more obscure. They have a counter facing the street and open the windows, which lends a nice vibe and is great for people-watching. They also make a solid local Negroni (a classic Negroni, but made with local ingredients). Love this option for a drink before dinner in the area.

• Silo Hotel – One of Cape Town’s swankiest hotels (but unfortunately located in the Silo District, right by the V&A waterfront), it’s worth a visit for a sunset drink at the cocktail bar. The restaurant is also supposed to be good, although I haven’t experienced it myself.

Where to Stay

Camps Bay

• Hotel: POD – I stayed here for a couple nights in May. Modern design with a boutique feel. Quick walk to Camps Bay beach and restaurants. The infinity pool is awesome. No restaurant onsite, but they do have a bar and will pick up dinner from local restaurants (this is how I discovered Colcacchio). I do think I would have enjoyed staying here more in the summer. 

• Airbnb: https://www.airbnb.co.za/rooms/plus/19004468 – I spent two weeks here in February.
  • What I liked: Good value, spacious, nice outdoor space with views of the sunset over the ocean. The host was very sweet and obviously cared a lot about ensuring that I had a good time. It was also great to have a (shared) pool, although we were informed that the only two lounge chairs were designated for a different unit (we used them anyway).
  • What I didn’t like: While certainly not outdated, the place did feel a little older than I was expecting. The decor was also a little new age for me. The private terrace didn’t feel all that private since I could hear the people in other units who were also outside or had their windows open. Finally, it was kind of a trek to get to the Camps Bay strip and beach. It took about 15 minutes walking and was all uphill on the way back, so I quickly learned to just take an Uber if I didn’t want to be a sweaty mess when I arrived at the apartment.

Clifton

• Airbnb: https://www.airbnb.co.za/rooms/plus/2508227 – I stayed here after the Camps Bay Airbnb and it was definitely an upgrade, albeit at nearly twice the daily rate. This apartment did have an office/bedroom area with a sofa bed that can be closed off from the main dining/living area, so it could technically house three or even four people.
  • What I liked: OMG the views. The apartment is in a complex located right on the beach (Clifton 1st). I looked out at the ocean, the beach, the Twelve Apostles and unobstructed sunsets every day. It also had a huge private terrace and you could silde open all the floor-to-ceiling windows to have an amazing indoor/outdoor feeling. The appliances, design, decor were all clean and modern. It was in a small building with only one unit per floor, so it felt intimate (although I did spot people in the building next door walking around naked, haha). I could walk right out to the street and go for an amazing run in either direction.
  • What I didn’t like: Not much. The biggest problem is that I never wanted to leave! It also would have been nice to have a pool. And it’s a long walk to anything (25 minutes to the Checkers grocery store in Sea Point and 25 minutes to Camps Bay). However, Cape Town is really not much of a walking city for several reasons, so you’re going to end up taking a lot of Ubers anywhere you stay – and Uber, like many things, is much more affordable in South Africa than in the States.

Oranjezicht

• Hotel: MannaBay – Spent four nights here and loved it. A mansion converted to a boutique hotel, it’s in an upscale residential neighborhood that you typically wouldn’t see as a visitor to Cape Town. However, it is very central, and a very quick drive to central Cape Town and Camps Bay. The entire place is immaculately decorated with a ton of African art, cool rugs, etc. The staff is also wonderful and they add a lot of value – i.e. free transfer from the airport, free transfers to/from dinner, free drinks (like ALL you can drink), an expansive spread of snacks and free-flow champagne daily for high tea. Even though it’s a very small hotel, they still offer a bunch of amenities like a gym, pool, lots of common areas, etc. 

Stellenbosch

• Hotel: Clouds Estate – Boutique hotel located next door to Delaire Graff. You get the same views as DG, but can stay for a fraction of the price! I booked their cheapest room ($160/night) and it was still very spacious, with a huge private terrace. Meanwhile rooms at DG were going for $1000+/night. Their infinity pool is incredible, and you get a free tasting and bottle of wine with your stay (they make their own wine, but do not have a tasting room open to the public). They also have a partnership with DG; I was planning to walk over from Clouds, but they insisted on taking me both ways in a golf cart. Can’t complain about that!