Honestly, I didn’t know much about Tasmania before I started my travels in 2019. Then I met a couple people who lived in Australia (one American expat visiting Japan, one local visiting Italy) who raved about Hobart and its flourishing food and beverage scene. As I researched on my own, I discovered a bevy of outdoor activities and a unique modern art experience in an accessible waterfront city (Hobart’s population is less than 250k people). I was in. I booked a 90 minute flight from Melbourne and a two hour return to Sydney on Qantas and gave myself three days to fill with eating, drinking, hiking and art-viewing.

Where to Eat and Drink

The Australian inhabitants I met while traveling sold me on the outstanding dining options in Hobart. Fortunately, one of them shared a highly detailed insider’s list of recommendations that I drew upon heavily during my visit. I easily could’ve stayed a full week, eating and drinking like a queen in the evening while visiting incredibly beautiful sites during the day. Since I had only three nights in Hobart, I selected the most intriguing options from the outsized list of excellent restaurants in the city. If I had not been traveling solo, I’m sure I would have more to add here on Hobart’s bar scene.

• Templo – An intimate restaurant tucked away on a quiet side street, Templo only offers two seatings and a seasonal chef’s menu with optional wine pairings (of course, I opted in). I was seated at a round communal table and made fast friends with the well-traveled gay British couple sitting next to me. Every dish was delicious, the wines were paired creatively, and the entire meal was less that $100 USD — a complete steal in my mind, as a similar experience would have cost 2-3x that in the U.S.

• Franklin – Sadly, this inventive restaurant housed in an airy, industrial space closed permanently in 2020 due to the pandemic. I sat at the counter and ran into both the British couple I had met at Templo the previous night, and the American guy who had also been on my “wilderness adventure tour” earlier in the day. So, this place was clearly popular with visitors.

• Islington Hotel – The restaurant at the boutique hotel I stayed at served a four course degustation menu Wednesday-Saturday evenings, so I took advantage on my last night. As with my other dinners in Hobart, the dishes were all made of local, seasonal items and the price was incredibly affordable.
• Evolve Spirits Bar – After dinner at Franklin I wasn’t quite ready to call it a night, so I stopped by Evolve at the MACq01 Hotel. Located on the waterfront, the bar wasn’t exactly popping on a Tuesday night, but the cocktails were world-class.

What to Do

Initially I thought that three days would be plenty for my visit to Hobart. Sadly, I underestimated the breadth of activities available in and around this small city, so I was really only able to scratch the surface. Bruny Island and Wineglass Bay were two places (both day trips) that I did not get to experience, but hope to see on my next trip! Regardless, I was blown away by the natural beauty, wildlife and unparalleled art.

• Mount Field National Park – I booked a small group “Wilderness Adventure Tour” to help me see as much of the flora and fauna surrounding Hobart as possible in just one day. We started at this beautiful park, which features trails through towering trees and a multi-tiered waterfall.

• Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary – After walking around the national park, we stopped at a wildlife sanctuary to see some of Australia’s endemic animals in a safe and humane way.

• Mount Wellington – We spent the afternoon walking around the trails of this mountain that offers impressive views overlooking the city of Hobart and the River Derwent

• MONA – The Museum of Old and New Art describes itself as “a museum, or something,” which gives you an idea of the irreverent style of this place. Created by David Walsh, an Aussie multimillionaire and professional gambler, the site is only accessible by ferry, and features an art gallery, several bars, an expansive lawn and an outdoor live event space, amongst other things. I saved an entire day to experience this unique destination in its entirety.

Where to Stay

I debated between two places that in my mind are the best options for accommodations in Hobart (albeit pretty different in their offerings). I’ll start with where I decided to stay.

• Islington Hotel – This eleven room boutique hotel is located in a residential area of Hobart, approximately a 25 minute walk from the city center. I appreciated the thoughtful design of the art-filled building, as well as the personal, intimate feeling of the small space. It turned out that my gay friends from Templo were also staying here — we clearly had similar taste!

• Henry Jones Art Hotel – Located on Hobart’s waterfront, this beautiful hotel is steeped in history and is close to all the city’s main attractions. I would’ve been very happy to stay here, but was craving something a bit smaller.

All in all, Hobart felt like it was just the right combination of accessible and off-the-beaten-path (from the POV of an American at least). Throughout my time in Sydney and Melbourne I found myself craving nature and wildlife, and Tasmania was the perfect Australian solution. Add in an impeccable yet affordable dining scene and the impossible-to-match MONA and I’d recommend Hobart as a must-see during any visit to Australia.